We put an additional inclusion of a VAZ fan. Radiator fan wiring diagram. Checking the fan drive

Probably, many have noticed that the temperature of turning on the fan on the engines of the latest generation VAZ 2110-2112 (100-105 C) is too high for the normal operating temperature of the engine (85-90 C).

First of all, this introduction is connected with the manufacturer's struggle for cleaner exhaust from the pipe of your car (requirements of modern Euro 3 and higher standards). At this temperature, more complete combustion of the fuel and its components occurs.

But it should be noted that, as always, a given positive side for one aspect brings something negative for another. So, with a slight, but still overheating of the engine and head, irreversible physical and chemical processes occur in the metal, which ultimately affects the overall final operation of the engine hours of the power unit. Apart from the fact that in the event of a failure of the electrical components that affect the switching on of the fan, the time to notice this at an overestimated temperature of the nominal switching on of 105 C to overheating of 125 C will be much less than from normal operation to overheating.

For more uniform and controlled operation of the engine, it is proposed to make a parallel circuit for switching on the fan. A positive contact is always connected to one of the fan contacts, and for the second negative contact, it is proposed to connect via a parallel wire with a switch according to Fig. 1.

Figure 1 Electrical circuit diagram for connecting a radiator fan VAZ 2110 2111 2112

Figure 2 Wire connection in the engine compartment to turn on the VAZ 21102 radiator fan

Figure 3 Alternative location for installing the radiator fan switch VAZ 2110 2111 2112

After the implementation of this solution, it remains only to mention the additional possibilities to control the operating temperature of the power unit with all the subsequent positive arguments given above.

PS Many, due to the prevailing conservative views, may have the idea that in the electrical circuit a relay is required to turn on the cooling fan. I am against excess and I can say that in order for the circuit to work, it is enough just to have a powerful switch rated for a current of at least 20 A for 12 Volts, that is, 240 watts (such switches are on sale - for example, 220 Volts 16 A, as in Figure 3, that is, at 3520 watts) This scheme has been successfully operating on a VAZ 21102 car, manufactured in 2001, for 3 years already. It should also be additionally noted that this method is not a replacement for the standard radiator fan operation circuit in a car and is intended only as an alternative solution for engine operation at lower temperatures controlled directly by the driver.

In any case, if the engine overheats, even if you have implemented the principle described above, still check the cooling system and ensure it is in full working order.

Emergency actions in case of overheating of the engine cooling system while driving.

At the first signs of overheating, if the arrow of the temperature gauge has gone into the red zone, but no clouds of steam escape from under the hood, turn on the maximum interior heating mode. This is necessary in order to reduce the temperature of the coolant in the engine cooling system.

Turn on the hazard warning lights, depress the clutch pedal and, using the momentum of the car, try to carefully move to the edge of the roadway and stop as far to the right as possible at the curb, and if possible, outside the roadway. Let the engine run for a couple of minutes at normal idle with the heater turned on at full power, do not immediately stop the engine. Open the hood and inspect the engine compartment.

After the overheated engine stops, local overheating of the coolant begins at the points of contact with the most heat-stressed engine parts and the formation of increased local overheating. In addition, it is better to start the car for 10 seconds after 2-3 minutes, so that the new volume of coolant begins to contact the engine parts.

Determine where the steam is coming from, if any. When inspecting the engine, pay attention to the presence of coolant in the expansion tank (be careful not to burn yourself), the integrity of the rubber hoses, radiator, thermostat.

Look under the dashboard on the passenger side of the passenger compartment and find out if there are any leaks or traces of coolant flowing from the heater radiator under it.

If coolant leaks are found, a burst hose can be temporarily repaired with adhesive tape or band-aids from the first aid kit.

A radiator, thermostat or heater leak is quite difficult to fix on the spot, so in such a situation it is necessary to add water to the cooling system and carefully monitor the temperature gauge while driving, periodically restoring the level in the cooling system.

The engine can overheat if the thermostat fails, which controls the flow of fluid in the cooling system through the radiator or in addition to it (to accelerate the warm-up of a cold engine). To check the thermostat, on a warm engine, check by touch the temperature of the hose connecting the thermostat housing to the radiator. If the hose is cold, the thermostat is faulty and there is no circulation through the radiator.

Very often, the cause of overheating of the engine, the cooling system of which is equipped with an electric fan, is the failure of the fan. Start the engine, monitor the temperature and note if the cooling fan turns on when the engine overheats.

If the fan does not turn on, the fuse may have blown, the turn-on relay may be faulty, the motor may have burned out, or the wiring may be faulty.

Check the integrity of the wiring, the reliability of the connection of electrical connectors.

If the wiring is OK, check the fuse and replace it if it is defective.

If the fuse is good, try replacing the fan relay.

If the fan still does not turn on, check the motor. To do this, take two additional wires and power it directly from the battery. Wires must be securely fastened and insulated.

If the electric motor started to work, the wiring is faulty; if not, the wiring or the motor itself is also faulty. The relay and motor are not repairable, replace them as an assembly.

Attention! All wiring diagrams are provided "as is". We do not accept any liability for any possible damage associated with their use and application. The use of the following electrical circuits is at your own risk! Most of the schemes are theoretical developments and have not been tested in practice!

The presence of several temperature control channels provides quite ample opportunities for designing a cooling system.

Since installing a fan on a Gazelle is not a standard procedure, there are many options for its implementation. Therefore, if you have a need for any other, not described below, option - write to me by mail [email protected]– I will help you develop your own connection option, taking into account the availability of specific spare parts and wishes for functionality. The scheme of this option will be added to this page.

Also send feedback on the operation of installed and tested cooling schemes - they will be published on to facilitate the choice and to avoid mistakes by those who follow us.

• Connect the power wires to the battery with wires with a cross section not less than that of the fan wires.
• Place fuses for power wires as close as possible to the point of connection to the battery.
• The relay is conveniently placed on the side surface of the body behind the right headlight, closer to the battery.
• If the negative wire is common for both fans, its cross section must be at least the sum of the cross sections of the negative wires of both fans.
• To connect the wires, use terminals and crimped copper tubes, carefully insulate the wire connections.
• Secure the wire harness with plastic ties to the body or existing harnesses to prevent the insulation from chafing against sharp edges during vibration.
• Additional contacts of the Lira type in the ECU connector for pins 25 and 33 can be removed from most GAZ wiring connectors - injector connectors, speed sensors, phase, DPKV, TPS, IAC, temperature, detonation ..) Very difficult - but possible.

Scheme 1. One main fan.

The simplest connection scheme. In this case, the fan switch-on temperature is determined by a frog or an ECU with 33 or 25 pins. The fan is the main one and operates only at full power.

If you installed two fans on the radiator, then you can add a similar circuit to service the second fan by taking the control signal from a free output (frog, 33 or 25 ECU pin).

This will ensure increased reliability of the cooling system (if one fan fails, the other remaining one will cope with cooling), as well as the ability to turn on the fans at different temperatures (for example, Fan 1 from the frog turns on at 88 degrees, and from 33 ECU contacts Fan 2 turns on at 92 degrees ). With the simultaneous operation of two fans, there will be a double cooling efficiency - you can go to Dakar and safely skid.

Option 2. Serial connection of two fans.

Just a simple circuit on one relay. In the previous scheme, one more fan is added sequentially to the first. This is exactly the connection option on my Gazelle. Both fans turn on simultaneously at a reduced speed and rotate approximately 3-4 times slower than a conventional fan (depending on the additional fan - the lower its power, the slower both fans will rotate).

This scheme was tested throughout the summer of 2015 - when two fans were running at low speed, there was never a problem with overheating. True, I note that in hot weather they did not turn off at all.

The undoubted advantage of turning on the fans at low speed is a small current surge in the circuit at start-up, as well as 2 or more times less current consumption during operation, which does not lead to overheating and failure of the fan motors. The low noise level is nice too.

Two 8-blade fans from VAZ are in my opinion the best choice for this scheme. I’m almost sure that when rotating at half speed (this is how they will rotate when connected in series), they will be more than enough for normal cooling of the Gazelle.

Option 3. Two-speed fan.

In this case, a circuit with two fans connected in series is used, which provides smooth start and cooling in soft mode with the ability to turn on powerful mode. The first activation level is controlled by relay 1 from terminal 33 of the ECU. If it is necessary to turn on the cooling system in a powerful mode, an enable signal is sent to the additional relay 2 from terminal 25 of the ECU (Air conditioning relay control).

In this case, the main fan 2 will switch from slow rotation to fast rotation, and the additional fan 1 will stop rotating.

When using two similar fans, this scheme does not give a gain in cooling efficiency.

It is more correct in this circuit to use a fan less powerful than the main one as an additional fan. The use of a suitable resistor instead of an additional fan (for example, a stove resistor type) will also give a good result. Power can be estimated by the resistance of the fan winding. Choose an additional fan or an additional resistor with a resistance of 2-3 ohms for a current of 5-7 amperes.

As a result, we get a smooth start of the fan in the soft cooling mode at 30-50 percent of the rotation speed, and if necessary, the most powerful mode will be turned on without a sharp current surge at the start, since the main fan is already rotating.

I have not tested this option, but if the opportunity arises, I will put it on my car.

To enable control pins 25 and 33, it may be necessary to reprogram the ECU. About ECU preparation

All the main wiring diagrams and modifications of the connection of the cooling fan (CO) of the liquid in VAZ cars of various models are given. What is the essence of the work of VO? An electric motor with an impeller on a shaft is mounted inside a rectangular metal frame, with which it is attached to the back of the radiator. When voltage (12 V) is applied to the drive contacts, it starts to work, rotating the blades and creating a directed air stream, which, in fact, cools the antifreeze or antifreeze.

If the cooling fan does not work, do not rush to contact a car service. You can determine the cause of the malfunction yourself. Moreover, for this it is not at all necessary to have special skills - just study the reference material from website and follow the instructions for checking/replacing it.

Scheme of switching on the cooler VAZ 2104, 2105 and 2107

1. radiator fan
2. temperature sensor (located on the bottom of the radiator)
3. mounting block
4. ignition relay
5. egnition lock

A - to the contact "30" of the generator.

Electric cooling fan VAZ 2106

1. motor start sensor;
2. fan motor;
3. motor start relay;
4. main fuse block;
5. ignition switch;
6. additional fuse block;
7. generator;
8. accumulator battery.

Fan connection 2108, 2109, 21099

Until 1998, on cars with the old fuse block 17.3722 (finger-type fuses), relay 113.3747 was included in the fan circuit. After 1998 there is no such relay.

Also, until 1998, the switch-on sensor TM-108 was used (the temperature of closing its contacts is 99 ± 3ºС, opening 94 ± 3ºС), after 1998 TM-108-10 with similar temperature ranges or its analogues from different manufacturers. The TM-108 sensor works only in tandem with a relay; the TM-108-10 reinforced for high current can work both with and without a relay.

Scheme of switching on the engine cooling fan on the VAZ 2109 with mounting block 17.3722

1. Fan motor
2. Motor enable sensor
3. Mounting block
4. ignition switch

K9 - Relay for turning on the fan motor. A - To the output “30” of the generator

Scheme of switching on the engine cooling fan on the VAZ 2109 with mounting block 2114-3722010-60

1. Fan motor
2. The sensor 66.3710 of inclusion of the electric motor
3. Mounting block

A - To the output “30” of the generator

Scheme of inclusion of VO VAZ 2110

The scheme for switching on the VAZ 2110 cooling fan on carburetor and injection cars is different. On cars with a carburetor engine, a TM-108 thermobimetallic sensor is used for this, and on cars with an injection engine, the control is carried out by the controller.

Scheme for 2113, 2114, 2115 injector and carburetor

Where is the fan relay

4 - electric fan relay;
5 - relay of the electric fuel pump;
6 - main relay (ignition relay).

Attention: the sequence of relays and fuses can be arbitrary, we are guided by the color of the wires. Therefore, we find a relay from which a thin pink wire with a black stripe extends, coming from the main relay (terminal 85 *) (not to be confused with a thin, red wire with a black stripe coming from the controller) and a thick power white wire with a black stripe (terminal 87) (white and pink wires we need), this is the fan relay.

If the cooling fan is not working

To drive the fan, a DC electric motor with excitation from permanent magnets ME-272 or similar is installed. Technical data of the electric fan and the fan switch-on sensor:

• Rated speed of the motor shaft with impeller, 2500 - 2800 rpm.
• Consumed current of the electric motor, 14 A
• Sensor contact closure temperature, 82±2 deg.
• Opening temperature of the sensor contacts, 87 ± 2 degrees.

The cooling fan may not turn on due to:

• malfunctions of the electric drive;
• blown fuse;
• faulty thermostat;
• a failed temperature sensor for turning on the cooler;
• faulty VO relay;
• breakage of electrical wiring;
• defective expansion tank cap.

To check the VAZ fan motor itself, we apply 12 V voltage from the battery to its outputs - a serviceable motor will work. If the cause of the problem is the fan, you can try to repair it. The problem is usually the brushes or bearings. But it happens that the electric motor fails due to a short circuit or a break in the windings. In such cases, it is better to replace the entire drive.

The fuse VO is located in the mounting block of the engine compartment of the car and has the designation F7 (20 A). The check is performed using a car tester turned on in probe mode.

1. In a car with a carburetor engine it is necessary to check the sensor - turn on the ignition and close the two wires leading to the sensor. The fan should turn on. If this does not happen, the problem is definitely not in the sensor.
2. For injection cars it is necessary to warm up the engine to operating temperature, and disconnect the sensor connector by disconnecting it from the on-board network of the machine. In this case, the controller must start the fan in emergency mode. The electronic unit perceives this as a failure in the cooling system, and forces the fan drive to work continuously. If the drive starts, the sensor is faulty.

Replacing an electric fan in a car

1. We put the car on a flat surface, immobilize it with a parking brake.
2. Open the hood, disconnect the negative terminal.
3. With a 10 key, unscrew the fasteners of the air filter housing.
4. Using a screwdriver, loosen the air duct clamp on the air flow sensor and remove the corrugation.
5. We unscrew the screws that fix the cover of the air filter housing, remove the filter element.
6. Using an 8 key, unscrew the air intake mount and dismantle it.
7. With a key of 10, then by 8 we unscrew the nuts securing the fan casing around the perimeter (6 pieces in total).
8. Disconnect the wiring harness at the fan connector.
9. Carefully remove the fan shroud along with the drive.
10. Using a 10 key, unscrew the 3 bolts holding the electric motor to the casing.
11. We put a new one in its place.
12. We install the structure in place, fix it, connect the connector.
13. Further installation is carried out in the reverse order.

Control circuit upgrade

The cooling fan on the top ten turns on at a temperature of 100-105 ° C, while normal operating
The temperature of the engine is 85-90°C, it turns out that the fan turns on when the engine overheats, which naturally has a negative effect.

This problem can be solved in two ways: adjust the turn-on temperature in the "brains" or make a button. We will focus on the second. Turning on the fan from the button is very convenient: got into a traffic jam - turned it on, left - turned it off, and no one overheated.

A button for selecting the fan operation mode was installed in the cabin (permanently turned off, always on, turned on automatically by means of a sensor) - this “tuning” is not mandatory, but it will be a very useful addition.

There will be a large current on the relay contacts 87, 30, on the wire from the battery to the fuse and the fan ground, and therefore we must use wires there with a cross section of at least 2 mm, otherwise the thinner wire will not withstand and burn out.

Video - connecting and checking VO

The cooling system is designed to maintain the optimal temperature regime of the car engine. Its main elements are channels for antifreeze in the cylinder block, pipes, a thermostat, a radiator, and the electrical part includes a VAZ 2110 fan switch-on sensor, a temperature sensor and an electric motor with an impeller for. Late detection of defects in the cooling system can lead to engine overheating and costly repairs.

Fan activation sensor LS 0108 (ТМ-108)

Switching schemes

In injection and carburetor engines VAZ 2110, the temperature bimetallic sensor TM-108 is used in different ways to control the on and off of the fan motor.

For carburetor engines, it is located on the radiator on the left in the direction of travel. When heated, the threaded part located directly in the coolant, the bimetallic plate bends and closes the contacts. The voltage from the battery through the fuse is supplied to one contact of the electric motor, the second, when the sensor is triggered, is connected to the housing, setting the impeller in motion.

Fan switch on sensor (carburetor VAZ 2110)

For injectors VAZ 2110, TM-108 it is located near the thermostat, the signal is sent to the electronic control unit (ECU). The control signal from the ECU goes to the cooling fan relay, which, similar to the carburetor motor sensor, controls the electric motor.

Injection sensor for turning on the fan

In all engines, there is another device in the cylinder block, the signal of which is used to indicate the temperature of the coolant on the panel in the cabin.

Before engaging in self-repair of the fan on sensor, it is recommended to understand in detail the design of the cooling system:

The fan does not turn on

There may be several reasons for this:

• Fuse. In the mounting block, the F7 fuse, rated 20 amperes, may be faulty - it is responsible for powering the electric fan and horn circuits;
• Thermostat. The liquid circulates only in a small circle, the radiator and the sensor do not heat up, respectively, the fan does not turn on. You can check by simply probing the pipes, suitable for the radiator should start to warm up after opening the thermostat;
• Sensor. For a VAZ 2110 with a carburetor, contacts are closed for verification, if the device malfunctions, the electric fan will turn on. At the injection motor, it is necessary to disconnect the connector, with the rest of the elements working, the ECU will detect an open in the circuit, give an alarm constant signal to the relay, which will forcibly turn on the electric motor for cooling;
• Cooling fan relay for injection engines VAZ 2110. The sensor is turned off, the power contacts are closed on the relay located in the additional fuse box. If everything worked, then we check the control winding: on one contact there is always a plus from the main relay, connecting the second to the case, we try to hear a click of operation. But it’s better to just replace the relay to check, temporarily, with a known good one;
• Electric motor. When checking, the connector is disconnected; to force the impeller to turn on, voltage is supplied directly from the battery.

If all the elements are in good order, then the breakage must be sought in the wires, alternately “ringing” them. Poor contact with the car body of the terminals of the wires for connecting the relay and sensor is also possible. The worst case would be for the ECU to fail, while the signal from “leg” 46 usually “floats” and does not reach +12 volts (off) and 0 (on).

Fan runs continuously

This is a rarer defect, it occurs in the following cases:

• The sensor contacts do not open, the “Check engine” lamp is on, for carburetor VAZ 2110, when the connector is disconnected, the fan turns off;
• The wires to the device were cut off (only at the injector);
• "Stuck" relay in the closed state.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to replace the failed element.

Check at home

Sometimes the motor starts too late when the antifreeze temperature is already high. This may be caused by a malfunction of the valve in the radiator cap or abnormal parameters of the switch-on sensor. You can check the operating temperature of the device at home, using a multimeter and a thermometer.

After disconnecting the electrical connector, the sensor is unscrewed with a key. To avoid burns, remove the device only from a cold engine, after draining the antifreeze. When reinstalling, it is advisable to use a new sealing copper washer and not apply too much torque when tightening.

The subtleties of replacing antifreeze are studied in detail in this article:

The switch-on temperature is engraved on the end, it can be from 92 to 95 degrees. To check, you need to connect a multimeter in resistance measurement mode and immerse the threaded part in a container of water.

By heating the water and following the readings of the multimeter, we register the moment of switching on by the thermometer, and when it cools down, the switch-off temperature. Standardly it is 92 and 87 degrees, with significant deviations, late operation is especially critical, the device needs to be replaced.

To improve cooling, it is possible to install a double fan from Niva. There are two modifications for placement: after the radiator or in front of it.

Nivovsky injection radiator 21214-1300024-43 (placed in front of the radiator)

On the VAZ 2110, you can install any of the options with minimal modifications to the fasteners in place. When the electric motors are connected in parallel, the current consumption increases to 40 amperes, which requires replacement of the wiring.

Nivovsky suction radiator (placed after the radiator)

Monitor engine temperature. If it is too late to notice overheating, then in addition to boiling antifreeze and a forced stop, more serious consequences are possible: deformation of the cylinder head, jamming of the camshaft. In case of defects in the operation of the fan of the VAZ 2110 cooling system, malfunctions can be diagnosed independently by checking the thermostat, electric motor, relay, switch-on sensor.

This solution allows you to get rid of frequent inclusions cooling fan, there are no voltage drops (although I didn’t have them due to a good generator and automatic pH at 14.5V), XX does not drop when the fan is turned on. And there is no vibration on the body with the native 4-bladed fan. The regular operation of the cooling fan remained in place.

The cooling fan now turns on at half power at 92 degrees, and the maximum speed will be when it reaches 96 degrees.

It turned out this:

Here it is in the underhood. Tee in the center, relay on the left, etc.

This required the following components:

1… A tee for a cooling sensor from a gazelle, worth 150 rubles. Sawed by the wife of a Bulgarian and rolled with a hammer and filed.
2… DTOZH from the classics 92/87 degrees. Rubles 100.
3… 2 hose clamps. What size - xs. Just under this pipe and that's it ...
4… Relay 4-pin 70 A + connector. Cost 160 rubles with a chip.
5… Fuse for 30 A remote. I put in the power circuit on the 30th relay contact.
6… Crimping chips + crimping (you can also use narrow pliers) and heat shrinkage were.
7… Various wires 4 meters.
8… Chips mom / dad on the fan, because I did not want to cut the insulation. The “native” fan chip is disconnected, our purchased one is connected to each other, the positive contact is isolated, and the negative contact is used to connect a signal from the relay to it.
9… Resistance from a classic stove to 1.5 ohms. You can also put 2-2.5 Ohm resistance, but I could not find resistance from the UAZ stove in my city. So we are content with what we have. The fan is supplied with 6.6 V by the tester.

The lower radiator pipe is cut if your radiator is a new model without a plug for DTOZH. Set the tee so that the sensor contacts are at 90 degrees, and not like in my photo (I almost missed this moment, the stove body does not sit down a little as it should). But this will be corrected when replacing the coolant.
If you have an old-style radiator, or Luzarovsky universal, then you do not need to cut the pipe. These radiators have a plug for DTOZH.

And here is the scheme of work.

87… we twist the contact or solder it to the black wire of the fan (orient yourself along the wires from the fan itself, and not along the central wiring, because the colors may differ. Another option is to ring with a multitester). “Plus” to the fan is constantly supplied to it, but it is controlled by a mass signal (it may differ according to the years of production, judging from the comments).
86… contact can be connected directly to the “positive” terminal of the battery. The relay coil does not carry voltage.
85… we connect the relay contact to the gap through the coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH). The sensor in our case acts as an automatic button.
30… we connect the contact directly to the negative terminal of the battery through a fuse, then we connect the resistance resistor and then to the relay.

The resistance resistor itself was pulled to the case by a cooling fan with a conventional clamp. Mount the resistor in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe air flow from the fan to cool it. It heats up well during operation.

In general, everything ... The fan for the whole evening of active rides and traffic jams never turned on to the fullest. Everything is on the machine, there are no jumps and drawdowns of revolutions on the twentieth. I like. The fan continues to run briefly even after the ignition is turned off.

You can also add a forced fan button to this circuit without any problems - be sure to use a relay that controls the plus of the relay coil (85 contact for example) taken from the main relay from the passenger compartment, the control minus (86 contact) through the fan switch button, for 30 and 87 contacts connect contacts DTOZH. All this is necessary so that the fan turns off when the ignition is turned off and the possibility of constant operation of the fan is excluded in case of forgetfulness of the driver.
Although IMHO - this button is superfluous with such a decision.

Well, by the way - this scheme can be used for carb cars. You just need a sensor, one “chisel” for the radiator, and the second “classic” for the tee (although vice versa is possible). Well, this is if you can’t find a 2-mode fan switch-on sensor from foreign countries.

P/S.. They put a friend in the same way on a VAZ 2115, 2006 onwards. - according to the scheme, I had to change the polarity of the voltage supply to the fan. It is controlled not by “minus”, but by “plus”.