Why are apricot trees disappearing? Control measures for pests and diseases of apricot. Verticillium or vertical wilt of trees

Apricot is a grateful stone fruit. It is fast-growing, actively developing, not afraid of pruning and light freezing, does not impose special requirements on the soil, is distinguished by decorative flowering and dessert taste of fruits. However, insidious diseases and voracious pests can deprive gardeners of a tasty and healthy crop. Trees that have been growing on the site for a long time are especially susceptible to damage. Therefore, do not forget about preventive pruning, whitewashing, spraying and timely treatments.

Prevention of diseases and pests of apricot

It is possible to prevent the manifestation of fungal diseases by preventive pruning, whitewashing and timely processing.

• Carry out timely sanitary pruning in March - see.
• Whitewash trunks and skeletal branches with lime or water-based white garden paint - see.
• Do not forget to also remove fallen leaves, remove and burn spoiled fruits, and loosen the soil in the bite zone.
• Always collect and burn all fruits affected by pests or diseases, remove old bark,
• More often loosen the soil in the near-trunk zone,
• Water plants and fertilize - read about.

Apricot diseases

Apricot plants attack various fungal diseases: clasterosporiasis , moniliosis , verticillosis and so on. The development of the disease is facilitated by warm weather with high humidity. From fungal diseases, treatments with fungicidal preparations are effective.

Apricot cytosporosis

• Signs of cytosporosis are small brown tubercles that suddenly appear on the cortex.
• The development of the disease leads to premature wilting and death of leaf blades, drying out of the branches.
• With a strong spread of the disease, the tree dies entirely.

Fight against apricot cytosporosis

I advise you to start the fight against cytosporosis by removing the affected branches and burning them outside the site.

1. If the first signs of the disease were noticed in time and the affected areas of the bark are still small, it is necessary to treat the plants as soon as possible with 1% Bordeaux mixture or any other copper-based preparation.
2. With a strong lesion, you can increase the dosage by making the solution 2%.
3. Plants can be treated with Bordeaux liquid in the spring, using this drug as a prophylactic.
4. With a very strong infection, it is necessary to treat the plants with fungicides (antifungal drugs) allowed in the current season.

Noticed that wild apricots, so-called zherdelki, never get sick with cytosporosis. In any case, for 10 years of their growth on my site, there have never been signs of this disease.

May also suffer from cytosporosis. In case of cytosporosis of any fruit crops in any regions, the bark is cleaned, smeared and preventive spraying is carried out after harvesting. It is equally important to take preventive measures when.

Bacterial blight on apricot

This disease affects absolutely all parts of the apricot plant. A bacterial burn can manifest itself in different ways.

• Usually, dark marks are visible on the shoots, as if from a burn.
• Then ulcers appear in these areas, and the gum treatment begins.
• Brown bark can be seen on affected apricot plants.

With a strong spread of the disease, the tree may die.

Fighting bacterial fire

I advise you to start the fight against a bacterial burn by cutting and burning the affected branches.

1. All sections at the same time, before isolating with garden pitch or garden paint, must be processed 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol.
2. Sometimes treatment of affected plants helps. 1% Bordeaux liquid or blue vitriol in early spring (April) and summer (one month before fruit ripening).
3. You can also spray the plants after harvest, as soon as leaf fall begins. Use 3% Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol.

Prevention of bacterial burn on apricot

• In order to prevent this disease, always remove the gum from the bark.
• If, as a result of a strong development of a bacterial burn, apricot plants died and were uprooted, the soil in the place of growth must be decontaminated.
• Sprinkle the ground bleach at the rate of 150-180 g per 1 m² and embed it in the soil by digging on a full shovel bayonet.

Apricot varieties resistant to fire blight

A number of varieties, according to reviews of gardeners from various regions of Russia, are not affected by a bacterial burn:

1. Pineapple Tsyuryupinsky(North Caucasian region),
2. red-cheeked(North Caucasian and Lower Volga regions),
3. Shindahlan(North Caucasian region).

Monilial apricot burn

Monilial scorch on apricot develops during seasons with damp and cool weather.

• Most often, a monilial burn appears at the height of the flowering of the crop.
• Leaf blades and growths of the current year sometimes begin to turn brown, gradually dry out, and the leaves fall off ahead of time.
• If a monilial burn appeared when the fruits were already set and developing, then they may soon rot.

Fight against monilial burn

The fight against monilial burn should begin with pruning and burning the affected shoots, removing and destroying fallen leaves and rotten fruits.

1. To prevent a monilial burn in the spring, during the swelling of the kidneys, it is necessary to treat the plants 3% Bordeaux liquid or blue vitriol.
2. As soon as the shoots and leaf blades begin to dry out, the plants must be immediately treated with the preparation. Topsin-M, strobi, Topaz and etc.
3. For greater effect, in a solution prepared strictly according to the instructions on the package, you need to add half a piece antibacterial soap.

Apricot brown spot

• Brown spotting appears as brown spots on leaf blades, on which a narrow border of dark color appears after a few days.
• After some time, the leaf tissue inside the spots dies off and falls out, forming through holes.
• This leads to the death of the leaf blade and its discharge ahead of schedule.

Fight against brown spot

I advise you to start the fight against brown spot by removing the affected leaf blades and burning them.

1. For prevention, it is possible to process apricot plants during the period of bud break. 3% Bordeaux liquid or blue vitriol.
2. At the first sign of illness, repeat the treatment.

Apricot hole spot

• The first signs of the disease - small brown-scarlet spots - are visible on leaf blades and fruits.
• After 8-10 days, through holes form in place of the spots.
• Spots on the fruits lead to their drying and drastically reduce the yield.
• Affected leaf blades dry out and die prematurely.
• Trees affected by perforated spotting do not winter well and freeze strongly.

On plants that are heavily affected by perforated spotting, red-violet spots can already be seen on the bark, on the shoots. If no measures are taken, then active gum treatment begins at the site of the spots.

The fight against perforated spotting

I advise you to start the fight against perforated spotting by removing the affected leaves, shoots, fruits and burning them outside the site.

1. Clean up all wounds 3% copper sulphate or Bordeaux mixture, and then isolate them with garden pitch.
2. They cope well with perforated spotting of treatment with copper-containing preparations.
3. Helps drug treatment Horus And Mikosan.
4. Preventive treatments can also be carried out 3% Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol in autumn (after leaf fall) and in spring (when buds begin to bloom).

I also noticed that trees growing on poor soil suffer from this disease more often. Therefore, try to provide plants with nutrition.

For prevention, for each plant you need to make:

• spring - 1 tbsp. l. nitroammophoski,
• during the flowering period - 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate,
• after harvest 150-200 g wood ash.

Gum apricot

Gum may appear due to violations of the timing of pruning (later March), freezing and cracking of the bark.

1. Gum should be removed with a wooden scraper.
2. Then clean up the affected area and process 1% Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol.
3. If damage is visible on the bark, then after processing it is necessary to isolate them with garden pitch.

Apricot pests

Most common on apricot aphid, codling moth And leaflet. Insecticide preparations, laundry soap treatments are effective against pests.
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Codling moth on apricot

Apricot plants are harmed not by the codling moth itself, but by its caterpillars.

1. Caterpillars of the codling moth hatch from the ovipositor in the summer and try with all their might to get into the fruits, leading to their spoilage and rot.
2. Caterpillars hibernate either in the soil or in crevices in the bark.
3. Insecticide treatments help against codling moth: 0.5% solution Entobacterina, Decima or Inta Vira.

Leaflets on apricot

• Apricots are also harmed by caterpillars that hatch from eggs laid by a butterfly leafworm.
• Caterpillars are extremely voracious and actively eat not only leaf blades, but also buds.
• Caterpillars appear already in spring, and in summer they fold leaves and pupate in them, so that after some time they fly out as butterflies and give the second offspring of caterpillars in the season.

To combat the leafworm, you can use the same drugs as for the fight against the codling moth.

Growing apricots with your own hands is a difficult task. Until recently, the crown turned green, flowers bloomed or fruits ripened, and now the leaves of the apricot are turning yellow, withering and falling off.

Sluggish leaves are the first symptom that an apricot needs help.

A change in the color of the leaves is the first symptom of a disease that can be caused by various reasons. It is in the interests of the gardener to find out why the leaves turn yellow in order to help the tree before the crop suffers.

The main causes of wilting

The main causes of leaf wilt can be divided into four groups:

1. The destructive effect of weather is drought or endless rains. Solution to the problem: additional watering in the first case and refusal of watering - in the second.
2. Deficiency of minerals such as nitrogen, phosphorus and magnesium. But also the lack of other elements is reflected on the leaves. If the reason why apricot leaves wither and turn yellow is this, there is nothing to guess. The first step is to determine what minerals are missing, the second step is to introduce them into the soil.
3. Pests. These may be insects, especially green aphids that feed on young apricot leaves. Aphids suck out all the juices from the leaves, as a result of which they first turn yellow, and then curl and fall off. And rodents (mice and hares) cause great harm to the tree, which feed on the bark of the tree in winter. Through the damaged bark, nutrients are poorly supplied to the apricot leaves, as a result of which they begin to turn yellow and die.
4. Separately, it is necessary to touch upon apricot diseases, which first entail yellowing of the leaves, and then the defeat of the entire tree. If you miss the disease at an early stage, then it may be too late, the tree can no longer be saved.

How to deal with diseases

Many diseases in apricot trees lead to yellowing and wilting of the foliage. In the list of such diseases, the first three places (in terms of prevalence) are occupied by:

1. Moniliosis is caused by the fungus Monilia. The infection is common in areas where spring is usually rainy and cool. The disease manifests itself in two forms: in spring - in the form of a monilial burn and in summer - as gray rot. First, the leaves turn brown, then dry. The next victims of the Monilia fungus are young shoots - powerful branches become covered with cracks. In the summer, gray rot affects the fruits. To stop the spread of the disease, you need to cut off all the affected branches and burn them. Slices of branches to process garden pitch. To prevent moniliosis, all fruits are harvested from a tree, and the bole is covered with whitewash with copper sulfate. Spraying with special preparations is used.
2. The causative agent of verticillium is a soil fungus. Many trees in the garden fall under his "strike". It infects the apricot root, blocking access to beneficial substances, or insects can be its carriers. The leaves begin to turn yellow, the shoots dry out. If the disease is not noticed in time, it becomes too late - the tree dies. But in the early stages of the disease, trees can be saved. To do this, make several sprays with drugs such as Fundazol or Topsin-M.
3. Klyasterosporioz - the curse of summer residents, a very common disease. The first symptoms are brown spots on the leaves. Gradually, holes appear in their place, and cracks appear on the bark of branches. Damaged branches must be removed, and after the foliage has fallen, the tree is treated with a 4% solution of Bordeaux mixture or Chorus, diluted in water at the rate of 3 g per 10 liters of water.

How to deal with pests

Drying leaves on an apricot are often a symptom of damage to the tree by aphids or leafworms.

Aphids are small black and green insects that can be found on the back of a curled leaf. They feed on the sap of the plant and provoke the infection of the tree with a soot fungus.

Affected leaves are first covered with a white bloom, then they dry out and fall off. Shoots are deformed. The development of the tree is suspended. There are several ways to deal with pests.

1. Insects can be collected from an apricot by hand - a very laborious method, ineffective with a large number of pests. You can try to attract aphid-eating birds or ladybugs, but if there are too many insects, the birds will not be able to help.
2. Fitoverm, Karbofos and other preparations quickly and efficiently destroy aphids, but, being chemical preparations, spoil the crop. Do not apply chemicals during flowering and fruit set.
3. A soapy solution is a more delicate and economical remedy for getting rid of aphids, but it is weaker than Fitoverm. To prepare this remedy, you need to take 2 tbsp. liquid soap and mix them with 10 liters of water. You can add a little ash to the solution.

Leaf rollers are nocturnal butterflies that love to feast on apricot leaves. Sometimes summer residents who did not have time to neutralize the butterflies in time find that the apricots have dried up. Special preparations that can be found in the store do an excellent job with leaflets.

Chlorophos is a very strong remedy, but it can only be used after harvesting. You can replace chemicals with homemade tinctures of garlic or tomato tops.

"Chlorophos" - a strong remedy for pests; applied only after harvest

Other pests are rodents. To protect apricot trees from them, you need to wrap the apricot bole with roofing felt or other dense material to a height of about 1 meter. This will protect the tree not only from rodents, but also weaken the influence of the cold wind.

If the apricot leaves wilted - this is a reason to sound the alarm. The tree must be quickly and efficiently treated for fungal diseases or pests so as not to lose it.

Every spring we are pleased with the sweet and alluring smell of the beautiful color of the apricot tree. And how we wait for the arrival of bees for pollination. With the onset of summer, we are waiting for this amber fruit to please us with a honey taste. The apricot tree is easy to grow if properly cared for from the moment it is planted. But we are not always able to notice the problem in time, and even more so to recognize the sign and symptom of a tree disease.

There are fungal diseases and viral diseases.

Fungal diseases of apricot

The causative agent is a mushroom. It leads to browning and death of all important parts of the tree: flowers, shoots, fruits.

Fungal diseases include:

Moniliosis

Clusterosporiasis

Mushroom Wals

vertical wilting

Let's consider each separately.

Moniliosis (there are two forms of the disease - monilial burn and gray rot of fruits)

Signs: the course of the disease resembles the action of fire - at first the flowers are affected, which instantly wither, then the spores of the fungus pass to the leaves and shoots. Thicker branches are covered with cracks. Everything dries up quickly.

The favorable period of the disease is flowering in cool, rainy weather. Way of penetration - spores of the fungus are scattered by the wind or insects on flowers. The mycelium, from the flower, penetrates and infects the shoots. Insect vectors: leafworms, moths, codling moths, weevils. And also when a sick fetus comes into contact with a healthy one. If no measures are taken, then the disease: firstly, will lead to a loss of crops by 70-80%; second, the infection will persist until next spring.

Control measures and prevention: In the "green bud" phase, spray with 3% Bordeaux liquid. Immediately after flowering: Horus (3g per 10l of water). 10-15 days before harvesting with an interval of 10 days, spray with Switch (5g diluted in 5-10l of water). Teldor is a drug that can be used during the flowering period until fruit ripening (8g per 10l of water).

Clasterosporiasis (perforated spotting)

Signs: most characteristically appears on the leaves. Brown spots form on the leaves, which lead to the loss of part of the leaf, leaving holes. Shoots are covered with rounded, and then cracking spots, from which gum flows. Affected areas become ugly.

Favorable period of the disease: infection occurs in spring and autumn.

Control measures and prevention: pruning and burning of affected shoots and branches before leaf fall. Spray in the spring on the kidneys, as well as in the fall after the foliage has fallen off with 4% Bordeaux liquid or 1% solution of copper sulphate. If the summer is rainy, then sprayed every 15 days. You can also use chorus 3g per 10 liters of water, it is used in the “rosebud” phase and, most importantly, it is safe for bees.

Mushroom Wals

Infectious disease - develops when an infection enters the wounds of a tree.

Signs: outwardly it is a growth, similar to an orange ulcer.

During the dormant period, it is not recommended to prune the tree in order to avoid infection, and it is also better to keep the soil in a well-loosened state. In the fight, you can still use Switch (10g per 10l of water, process 15-20 days before harvesting with an interval of 7-10 days).

Vertical wilt (verticillosis)

Signs: the leaves turn yellow at the bottom of the tree, while the top remains green. There are no visible signs of disease on the bark of the tree. The fungus develops in the conductive vessels of the wood and accumulates in the petioles and veins of the leaves. Decaying, plant debris enters the soil and infects new plants through a cut. Mostly young plants are affected.

Control methods and prevention: prevent excessive soil moisture, avoid close planting of nightshade, strawberries, tobacco. When digging up the earth, do not damage the roots, dispose of the affected branches. In the spring, along the blossoming buds, and in the fall, during the period of leaf fall, spray with Bordeaux liquid.

Viral diseases of apricot

Now let's look at common viral diseases. The causative agent is the smallest living organisms. Organisms are very small and do not have a cellular structure.

These include:

- "pox" plums

Ring "pox" of apricot

Viral wilt of apricot

Ribbon mosaic of apricot

Let's consider each separately:

"Smallpox" plums

Apricots are also susceptible to plum pox virus.

Signs: in the apricot fruit, depressed spots and stripes are brownish in color, the flesh surrounding them is dry. The fruits ripen quickly (about half a month ahead of schedule), the taste of the fruit is low.

Ring "pox" of apricot

Signs: before the onset of hot days, in the spring, you can notice the symptoms of "smallpox" on the leaves. The shoots grow slowly, the leaves are small and the shape can be distorted, the branches dry up. When ripe, the fruit may have characteristic swellings in the form of red-brown spots and rings. Such fruits, with signs of ring pox, fall off early.

Viral wilt of apricot

Signs: the surest sign is the simultaneous flowering and the appearance of young leaves. Throughout the summer period, light green spots are observed on the leaves, the leaf plate is thickened and twisted. The pulp of the fruit, around the stone, turns brown and dies. The reason for the death of a tree is sensitivity to an unfavorable environment. The pathogen is transmitted by budding and grafting.

Ribbon mosaic of apricot

Signs: appears in the spring on blossoming leaves. On a healthy leaf, yellow stripes appear along the veins, which safely border on healthy leaf tissue. Then, in this place, a "lace pattern" is formed, which leads to death.

Methods of dealing with viral diseases: to start - use only healthy planting material. Try to graft the top of the shoot. Prevent damage by pests, fertilize trees. When pruning, grafting, treat hands and tools with special disinfectants, moving from tree to tree. You can warm up the instruments at a temperature of 50 degrees, thereby reducing the likelihood of transmission of viruses during vaccination. To avoid disease, you can treat the tree trunk with lime and copper sulfate. Bottom line: how beautiful and healthy a tree that bears fruit abundantly.

A healthy garden is the desire of any owner, so you should be more careful about the health of our trees, read literature, visit gardening forums. We will be happy to help and answer any of your questions.

We wish you a good harvest!

Armenia is considered the birthplace of the sweet apricot. It has long been grown in India and China. Thanks to globalization, this amazing fruit has spread all over the globe. Apricot is a disease-resistant tree, but in our climatic conditions it can be affected by various fungal diseases. Therefore, when growing an apricot tree in your garden, you need to prepare to fight the diseases of this crop. Below are the most common apricot diseases and their treatments.

Moniliosis

Moniliosis or fruit rot is a disease caused by the marsupial fungus monilia. It is one of the most devastating diseases of stone fruit crops. According to the nature of the manifestation, two main forms of moniliosis are distinguished: monilial burn and fruit gray rot. Consider the measures to protect the apricot from these fungi.

The flowering of the apricot tree occurs in March, and the crop is harvested in July-August. Monilial burn is a common spring form of moniliosis. Unusually warm winters are considered to be the reasons for the development of this disease, since at low temperatures all pathogens of moniliosis usually die. The outbreak of monilial burn on apricot trees occurs during the flowering period of apricot, in rainy and damp weather (fogs and dew).

Signs. A symptom of a monilial burn is flower rotting.

The usual color of the petals changes to brown. At the same time, the wood turns brown, and then the wood quickly dies. This is due to the penetration of the pathogen into open flowering through the pistil of the flower. As a result, the entire flower part of the tree dries out. With a strong development of the disease, the fungus affects young shoots. This leads to the withering of a number of branches of the tree; the leaves begin to droop, later they turn brown and stiff. Usually the leaves do not fall to the ground, they remain on the branches until the next spring. Cracks appear on thick branches, which then turn into wounds with intense gum secretion. The wood looks like it's been burned by a fire. After a while, the apricot may die completely.

Fight against disease. At the first sign of a monilial burn, it is very important to remove all diseased parts of the plant. This can stop the spread of the disease on the shoots. Repeat the procedure 2-3 weeks after flowering. The manifestation of the disease is possible in the form of rotting fruits. It is necessary to collect and destroy all rotten fruits. Against a monilial burn, spraying with 3% Bordeaux liquid or 0.9% copper oxychloride is effective. Do not neglect whitewashing, do it at the end of autumn - before the onset of cold weather.

Fruit rot is a summer variety of moniliosis that develops during wet weather during the last weeks before the apricot harvest. This is the most common apricot disease, fruit after fruit literally rot, forming brown rot and white mold.

Signs of illness. First, a small light brown spot appears on the apricot, which then expands and softens, and eventually covers the entire fruit. A white coating forms on top of gray rot. Over time, apricots completely wither and rot.
Methods of struggle and prevention. The fight against apricot rot begins in the spring of the next flowering year. In the autumn-winter period, spraying with Bordeaux liquid is carried out, updating this operation two to three times at 15-day intervals. To avoid the development of gray rot, at the very beginning of flowering, preparations for moniliosis are used: Nitrafen, Confidor, Horus. In the spring, after the fruit appears on the tree, remove some of the branches to avoid excessive fruiting. For preventive purposes, by autumn, collect and burn the leaves and fruits of the tree or throw them in a secluded place. Pay special attention to pest control, as rot vectors are often insects. Use insecticides for prevention.

Important! If you do not remove the rotten apricot fruits yourself, they will remain hanging on the tree all winter. A dangerous fungus, as you know, can overwinter on the fruits of the plant. The disease will manifest itself and affect the next year's crop. Therefore, be sure to remove all affected fruits and shoots!

Brown leaf spot (gnomoniasis)

Gnomoniosis affects not only the leaves, but also the fruits of the tree. Fruit can crumble before it even ripens. If the apricot is still ripe, then this fungus can turn it into an ugly irregularly shaped fruit.

Signs. The main symptom of gnomoniasis is the appearance of small yellow spots on the leaves. Over time, the spots increase, turn brown and cover the entire surface of the leaf. If the disease is allowed to develop, the leaves will dry out and fall off prematurely.

Prevention and treatment. If you find any damage on the tree, it is unacceptable to leave the apricot in this state. Affected areas must be cleaned. In addition, treat the soil under the tree with 1% copper sulphate or Nitrafen. Do not forget to spray before the beginning of March. In this case, spraying with Bordeaux liquid is effective. Also, for the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to remove the leaves remaining after autumn.

Perforated spotting (clasterosporiasis)

Clasterosporiasis is a fungal disease that lives on diseased buds and shoots of almost all stone fruits. Treatment of this fungus on the trunk of an apricot is most effective at the very beginning of the disease.

Signs. Small round spots of light brown color appear on the leaves of the apricot tree. The spots look like they are pressed into the leaf. The affected areas dry up and fall out, forming holes on the leaves. That is why this disease is called "perforated spotting". Further, with a strong defeat by the fungus, the leaves may prematurely crumble. In addition, growths form on the trunk of the apricot, from which sticky juice (gum) flows.
How can an apricot tree be cured? On apricots, perforated spotting can occur not only as a result of a fungal infection, but also as a reaction of the plant to bacterial infections, to burns, and also to the ingress of chemicals. Therefore, when detecting characteristic symptoms, you must first find the source of the disease.

If the disease is of an infectious origin, you should try to eliminate the cause of the weakening of the tree. If the perforated spot is fungal in origin, take appropriate protective measures. The fungus can overwinter in leaf litter, so carefully collect and destroy fallen leaves. Then dig up the stem zone. A reliable way to combat apricot clasterosporiosis is treatment with copper-containing preparations (one-percent solution of copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquid). Spraying is carried out in early spring, according to the instructions for the selected preparation. Do not forget to cover the gum wounds of the tree with garden pitch.

Prevention. Provide the plant with good growth conditions: water the tree in time, wash the crowns, feed with fertilizers, and remove the affected branches in time.

Leaf curl (causative agent - deforming taphrine fungus) is the most formidable disease of stone fruit crops. Affected trees often lose their normal productivity. The disease sometimes leads to a complete loss of the crop. It is characterized by the appearance of swollen and reddish formations on the leaves. The leaves become twisted, "curly" - hence the name of the disease.
Signs:

1. In spring, young leaves become covered with blisters (bubbles).
2. Bubbles turn yellow, orange and red before darkening and completely subsidence.
3. Fruits and leaves die off en masse.
4. Shoots are deformed and lose their normal appearance.

Prevention. Like most fungi, curliness occurs in fairly warm weather when the air is still damp. Before this period, in late winter or early spring, you should already be in action.

Important! In the case of a disease such as leaf curl, nothing can replace preventive treatment. Prevention is the only effective way to fight this fungus! When curliness has appeared on the leaves of the apricot tree, it is already too late to do anything.

Apricot Leaf Curl Prevention Tips:

• The fungus often overwinters in humus, so carefully remove all fallen leaves in your garden in the fall.
• Then carry out the first treatment with Bordeaux liquid. This step is necessary to prevent spring blisters.
• Spraying work resumes in February.
• The third stage of spraying with Bordeaux liquid is carried out with the first buds on the trees and until May (every 15 days).

What to do if the disease has already manifested itself? In this case, we can simply avoid the spread of leaf curl. The fungus must be removed as early as possible, preferably before the end of January. You can use copper containing pesticides. If the disease has progressed, only the complete removal of all affected leaves, branches and fruits from the tree helps. However, it is advisable to avoid over-pruning - the tree can become very weak. To protect the roots from winter frosts and summer heat, mulch the base of the tree. Also, do not forget about the spring top dressing of the tree with organic fertilizers. Or treat the tree with the same Bordeaux liquid (according to the instructions).

Scab is another common fungal disease in fruit trees. This fungus produces enzymes that attack the cell walls of the fruit. The scab overwinters on fallen leaves. In addition, the development of the disease contributes to excess moisture (frequent precipitation). The longer the leaves of the tree remain moist and the higher the air temperature, the faster the infection spreads. As of May, the first damage to the leaves and fruits is already visible.
Signs. Shortly after flowering, dark green rounded spots form on the leaves, later they turn gray-brown. This is the primary infection. Scab on apricot is able to develop rapidly. In the worst cases, the fungus spreads over the entire leaf area. The leaves completely dry up and fall off. From time to time, shoots also become infected and die. In case of a late infection, the fruits of the tree begin to suffer. The fruit is covered with brown or gray hard spots. The body of the apricot is cracking. The scab destroys the pulp of the fruit. Apricots lose their taste, become unsightly and lose their decorative value.

Prevention and treatment. It will be difficult to use pesticides in the garden, as they will have to be applied in rainy weather (April to June) approximately every 4 days. In addition, most apricot trees are too large to be able to treat all leaves and shoots with an antifungal agent. Therefore, the best prevention is the right choice of apricot varieties. Avoid sensitive ornamental varieties. Choose more reliable, fungal-resistant species. The following apricot cultivars demonstrated significant resistance: "Special Denisyuka", "Monastyrsky", "Gold Rich".

verticillium wilt (verticillium wilt)

Verticillium wilt of fruit trees occurs in all countries of the world, but more often in areas with a temperate climate. Apricot crop is the most susceptible to this disease.

Signs. The disease is usually observed in early summer; manifests itself as a progressive loss of leaves by infected limbs, starting at the base of each branch. Before falling, the leaves may first turn yellow and dull. By the end of summer, only a bunch of leaves may remain on heavily affected branches. These tufts remain on the tree for several more weeks. The whole tree may show symptoms, but symptoms may also be limited to just one branch.

To protect an apricot tree from verticillium wilt, or at least reduce the number of fungi, you can use the following preventive methods:

• New shoots of stone fruits should be planted in areas of land where nothing has been grown for the past few years. Avoid planting trees in areas where crops such as potatoes, tomatoes, or strawberries used to be present.
• To remove any remaining fungus from the soil, fumigate or otherwise treat the soil (for example, solarize the soil) before planting trees.
• The quality of planting material is of great importance. Use only tested and disease-free planting material.
• Avoid damage to the roots of a young plant and excessive amounts of fertilizer.
• Periodically remove any affected, unproductive branches from trees.

Cytosporosis desiccation (cytosporosis)

The reason for the drying of young branches of a fruit tree may be a disease such as cytosporosis. It is apricot trees that are more prone to this disease than other crops. It is also called infectious drying, that is, fungal spores penetrate through various mechanical damage, cuts and cuts.

Signs. The disease manifests itself on the tops of the shoots in the form of brown smudges, spots form on the bark, the leaves wither. The fungus infects young branches, spreading down the tree and affecting old shoots and the trunk of the tree. Over time, the skeletal branches die off. This spread leads to the death of the entire tree. Drying can come on just like lightning, the bark suddenly becomes brown-red. Therefore, it seems that defeat occurs suddenly and without cause. But cytosporosis does not arise so easily. This means that the tree has already been weakened by something.

Disease control methods. The main thing is not to give spores the opportunity to penetrate into the wood. For this purpose, cover the damage on the tree with garden pitch, and cement large hollows. All damage from the sun, drought and frost must be disinfected with copper sulphate and then sealed. The apricot tree is easy to maintain in the initial stages of the disease. But, alas, any treatment in case of developed cytosporosis will be ineffective.

You can save a tree in the following way: remove all affected (withered) branches as soon as possible, capturing 10 cm of the healthy part of the shoot. Further, appropriate protective measures must be taken. You need to decide how to process the apricot in the spring. After pruning, the tree should be covered with garden pitch, capturing a diameter of more than 2 cm. In the fall, be sure to apply potash and phosphorus top dressing. Ash can be used as an available fertilizer. Combine top dressing with regular watering.

Did you know? For the apricot tree, foliar top dressing is very useful (there are many excellent fertilizers on the market). This method allows nutrients and trace elements to quickly penetrate the tree shoots and support the plant. Don't miss out on these opportunities!

Fusarium desiccation (fusarium)

Fusarium wilt affects apricot at any age, but more often at the flowering stage. Hot weather favors the spread and development of the disease.

Signs. First, grayish-brown, dull, slightly depressed spots appear on the leaves. In the future, spots also appear on the fruits, the flesh under the spot becomes dry, rotten, the peel is wrinkled. Infection usually occurs due to infection in the soil.

Treatment and prevention. Fusarium wilt affects mostly weak trees. Trees with mechanical damage (cracks, cuts) are susceptible to the disease. Therefore, in the fight against drying out, timely pruning of the tree, fertilizing the soil, watering, treating wounds, prevention in the form of spraying and treating apricots from diseases (in spring and autumn) is important. In autumn, remove and burn plant debris - places of possible infection. Carefully choose the soil for planting trees.

Did you know? It happens that an apricot tree gets sick and dies even with careful prevention and the best treatment. Gardeners still cannot find an explanation for this. Apricot trees are very thermophilic, so the main reason is considered to be an unsuitable climate zone for apricots.

Thus, like most fruit trees, the apricot is subject to diseases that can sometimes destroy the fruit crop. The apricot tree should be regularly checked for infections, even while indoors. In most cases, apricot diseases occur due to improper care and an unsuitable landing site. Timely treatment and prevention will help to avoid diseases and fungi. If everything is done correctly in tree care, garden owners will be able to enjoy these juicy and sweet fruits every summer.

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Why do apricot branches dry? There can be several reasons for the drying of the branches of fruit trees. One of them is the disease cytosporosis. First of all, apricots suffer, although other stone fruits are also affected.

First of all, trees that are weakened, damaged by frost, drought, and sunburn can be called vulnerable. The disease is also called infectious drying, that is, the spores of the fungus penetrate through various mechanical damage, frost holes, cuts and cuts. It turns out that the winter has passed, the frosts too. The tree develops and suddenly. Quite unexpectedly, we notice that the leaves begin to wither. Here and there. Why are the young branches drying up? Not only apricot, the same pattern occurs with peach. But individual sections of the bark, entire branches are already drying up, and even trees are dying.

We think it happened all of a sudden. But cytosporosis, drying out of fruits, does not just come. So the trees were weakened, wounded. The fungus penetrated the wood and began to develop there. The mushroom picker penetrates even into the core. An increased release of gum can be noted. It is she who disrupts the movement of juices, clogging the vessels, which leads to death. With the onset of heat, in spring and autumn, there are outbreaks cytosporosis diseases. Drying can be just lightning fast. Unlike black crayfish, the bark does not turn black, but has a brownish-red color. Also, it does not exfoliate, but urinate. Pay attention to the pycnidia - these are dark gray pads, located throughout the area, and not concentrically.

Although the disease cytosporosis differs from black cancer, the control measures are the same.

First of all, do not allow spores to penetrate into the wood. To do this, close wounds with garden pitch, cover large areas with a mixture of mullein and clay, and cement large hollows. All damage from frost, sun, drought must be disinfected with copper sulfate, followed by sealing.

Unfortunately, wound healing is only effective in the initial stages, that is, before the fungus penetrates the wood and cambium.

Potassium and phosphorus supplements will be very useful. Be sure to apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in the fall. You can use the available fertilizer - ash for this purpose. Combine fertilizing with watering. A tree that lacks moisture and nutrients is more susceptible to disease. Now on sale there are many excellent products for foliar dressing. They allow nutrients to quickly penetrate the leaves and support the plant. Don't overlook these opportunities.

If you are unsure about the health of your garden, or if the winter has been difficult, many branches have suffered, then spray with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid in early spring.

More about means of combating the drying out of fruit read the article fruit tree cancer . Do not neglect the winter whitewash. In the spring, this will no longer be useful, but will only become an ornament. On the contrary, this operation, carried out on time, will protect against frost cracks.

The reason for the drying up of fruit trees can be monilial burn. Read more about it.

Often , falling ill with verticillium wilt (wilt)