Who eats cucumber leaves in a greenhouse. Cucumber pests and how to get rid of them. Who are bears and why are they dangerous
In order for the cucumber harvest to meet expectations, you need to monitor the possible appearance of pests on the site, protecting the crops. Only high-quality processing of cucumbers will protect them from the main enemies and prevent the development of diseases affecting them. What pests are most often tempted by cucumbers and what methods of dealing with them are known? More on that below.
A dangerous enemy - aphid: how to deal with it
You can notice the melon aphid on the plant when examining the leaves - the insect camouflages itself on the back of the leaf. If melon aphids have settled on cucumbers, then it will not be difficult to notice this by the fallen leaves and a sharp decrease in the level of the crop, up to the death of the plant in weather with a high level of humidity.
The insect pest can be recognized by the characteristic oval shape of the body of a dark green color up to 2 mm long. If these are females, then they are wingless, if larvae, then variants of individuals with wings and without green or yellow are possible. Pests breed in the spring when the air temperature reaches 12 degrees above zero. Each adult gnaws cucumber leaves, stems, flowers. Up to 20 generations can appear in one season.
In order for the protection of cucumbers from melon aphids to give a result, you need to know about the methods applicable in pest control. These include:
- Treatment of plants with water and soapy water or clean water under pressure (suitable for a small number of insects).
- Treatment with tincture of onion peel or ash solution with an interval of 5 days.
- Burning yellow cucumber lashes in case of mass damage with the treatment of the remaining plants with sulfur powder or karbofos.
- Treatment with the drug "Iskra" or "Fitoverm" with protection with plastic wrap for a day.
- Planting plants that can scare away the pest: mint, mustard, garlic, coriander and others.
- Settlement on the site of natural enemies of aphids - ladybugs.
In order to not have to deal with pests often, it is important to comply with the requirements for fertilizing cucumbers, watering, and regularly weeding the soil, getting rid of weeds.
Spider mite - what is dangerous and how to get rid of it?
Spider mites on cucumbers can be found more often than any other insect pests. It affects crops regardless of the region and climate where they are grown, both in open areas and in greenhouses. The mite hooks on the underside of the leaf of the culture, drinking the juice and wrapping it in cobwebs. The result of such a neighborhood is the death of the leaf, and behind it the whole plant.
Such pests of cucumbers (photo can be found below), like spider mites, require a serious approach to destruction. Proven insecticides will do, as well as, in the absence of the possibility of using them, a soapy solution for treating plants.
As an option, it is worth considering the settlement of the site with the natural enemy of the tick - phytoseiulus, which will cope with the eggs laid by females. It needs to be restocked every few weeks.
Slugs - what harm do they do and how to exterminate?
At first glance, completely harmless slugs can actually cause the development of cucumber leaf disease and, as a result, reduce the amount of the crop and its quality level. It is the slugs that are carriers of fungal spores and a direct threat to infection of the culture with powdery mildew or gray rot.
Slugs appear in areas with favorable conditions for them:
- humid climate;
- an abundance of weeds;
- an abundance of voids.
So that cucumber pests do not have time to harm them, it is better to plant crops in early spring, giving them the opportunity to get stronger. After harvesting, it is important to remove all vegetation that pests can use as a food source.
If slugs appeared on the site and are aimed at destroying cucumbers, you can deal with them in the following ways:
- Collect by hand with tweezers.
- Arrange grooves in the area that complicate the movement of insects.
- Use proven chemicals - metaldehyde, fluffy lime, iron sulfate and others.
- Involve frogs, toads, and lizards to naturally exterminate pests.
- Create favorable conditions for nesting birds of prey - starlings, thrushes, magpies, etc.
Compliance with the rules regarding the care of the site and the timely planting of crops will become a kind of guarantee that diseases and pests of cucumbers will not violate plans for a seasonal harvest.
Who are bears and why are they dangerous?
A large number of enemies of cucumbers are replenished by bears. We are talking about fairly large insects up to 5 cm in length. Harm is caused by both adults and larvae. Medvedki gnaw through the plant in the area of \u200b\u200bthe trunk and root system, multiply rapidly and are able to fill the entire garden with themselves if cucumbers and other crops are not processed in a timely manner. You can fight bears in the following ways:
- Traps with manure on boards or plywood.
- Traps baited with a mixture of hot peppers, water and honey.
- Planting an alder that repels pests.
- Ready preparations - "Medvedko-s".
The latter option will require certain costs, but is a proven method, since insects die after exposure to the drug in just 2-3 hours.
How to deal with thrips on cucumbers?
If thrips appeared on the site - a small pest that winters in the remains of plants and is capable of producing up to 7 generations of new individuals per season, then urgent measures must be taken. Both adults and larvae are extremely dangerous for vegetable crops, in particular cucumbers. Pests suck juices from plants, as a result of which they change color, and eventually die.
You need to deal with thrips as follows:
- Carefully remove plant debris after harvest.
- Dig up the soil in autumn and spring.
- Disinfect the land on the site after harvesting with karbofos and similar means.
- Do not forget to treat the seedlings with an infusion of hot pepper and water, infused for a day with the addition of laundry soap.
Using solutions for treating plants, both purchased and prepared on their own, one must not forget about repeating the procedure with an interval of no more than 5 days.
Cucumber mosquito - how does it affect plants and how to display it?
Listing insects from the category of pests of cucumber seedlings, it is worth mentioning the cucumber mosquito. Most often it appears on plants affected by any disease. Insects pose a serious threat to the roots and stem part of the cucumber. Not only adults are considered dangerous, but also mosquito larvae that live in humus or manure.
Invasion of pests is noted in the middle of spring. It is at this time that females lay eggs of the order of 300 pieces at a time.
The larvae easily penetrate the root system of plants, dotting the stem with numerous passages.
In this case, the protection of cucumbers will be based on the use of spray preparations. One of the proven options is Iskra. The solution is prepared according to the instructions from one tablet diluted in 10 liters of water. This amount of solution is enough to process up to 100 m2 of land.
Additionally, it will be necessary to carry out thermal sterilization of the soil.
Wireworm - how it harms cucumbers, methods of struggle
The wireworm is the larva of the click beetle. Its length is 5 cm, its habitat is cracks in the ground on the site. Beetles from the larvae will appear no earlier than in 3 years, until this moment the larvae actively infect the stems of cucumbers, feeding on them from the inside.
An effective wireworm protection scheme is built primarily on the mechanical method - manual collection of pests, followed by digging up the earth. To prevent re-infection, after harvesting, all traces of plants are removed, liming and mineralization of the soil are carried out.
Specialized chemicals-insecticides will allow you to get rid of the larvae in large numbers. Proven options are Bazudin, Diazinon and Calypso.
Gall nematode - a pest worm and methods of dealing with it
What pests and diseases of cucumbers in the greenhouse are most common? One of the worst enemies of greenhouse crops is the gall nematode. Only 1.5 mm long, it penetrates the root system of plants, settles in the tissues and, releasing toxins, leads to the formation of swellings and growths in which larvae appear and grow.
Affected plants grow worse, bear less fruit. The solution to the problem in greenhouses can be the replacement of the affected soil (at least 50 cm) with a new one, or the cultivation of the land with steam.
Sprout fly and whitefly - how to defeat and protect cucumbers?
Sprout flies reach a length of no more than 5 mm, while getting to the site, they lay eggs in the soil, from which larger larvae will appear over time. It is they that infect crops, affecting seeds, seedlings and stems from the inside.
The larvae eat the plant for two weeks, after which they pupate and give rise to a new generation. In one season, several generations of pests appear in this way, negatively affecting the yield of cucumbers.
To prevent the sprout fly from harming crops, the following preventive measures should be taken:
- Use only ready-made compost in the greenhouse.
- Loosen the soil before use, plant the seeds after germination to a shallow depth.
- Use seed growth promoters.
- Remove all crop and plant residues after harvesting cucumbers.
Another enemy of cucumbers is the barely noticeable white midge whitefly. The insect appears in the second half of summer, displays larvae on the lower part of the leaf of the plant, which leads to their withering. Tobacco dust, as well as red pepper with water, will help get rid of the pest. Of the proven drugs, it is worth highlighting "Phosbecid" and "Confidor".
Cucumber Beetles - Rare but Dangerous Enemies
An overseas guest - the cucumber beetle is extremely dangerous for cucumbers, but is rarely found in the country. It is distinguished by stripes or spots of bright color on the back. The insect damages crops more often in the form of larvae. Plants turn yellow at first, and eventually fade. In addition, pests are carriers of diseases.
You need to fight them by disinfecting the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate, or by a mechanical method, followed by the destruction of beetles.
What other problems are there?
In addition to numerous diseases and pests, cucumbers may not be born due to a fungal infection that affects the soil. You can detect infection if the earth in the greenhouse is covered with a white coating - in the form of mold. The solution to the problem in this case will be drugs: Fundazol, Hom, Fitosporin. The preparations are added to the water during irrigation, after which the soil is loosened, leaving it to dry completely.
In conclusion, we note that it is realistic to grow healthy vegetables, especially if they are rare medicinal orange cucumbers, but only if the recommendations for soil and plant care with seasonal treatment and disease prevention are followed.
You can hardly find a garden plot that does not have at least a few cucumber bushes. But cucumbers, whether outdoors or in a greenhouse, are often affected by pests. There are simple preventive measures to help minimize the risk of infection. If it was still not possible to avoid this, then you need to be able to identify specific symptoms and know what to do in each specific case.
Since cucumbers are more than 90% water, it is easy to guess that they need frequent and plentiful watering. High air humidity combined with elevated temperature, as well as the closed space of the greenhouse, is an ideal "incubator" for many pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria that often attack bushes and crops. But this is not the only misfortune that plants can suffer from. Cucumbers are a favorite delicacy for many insects. And although many modern hybrids have protection against at least some diseases at the genetic level, breeders are not yet able to save them from pest attacks. If measures are not taken in time, it is quite possible to lose a significant part or all of the crop.
Not a single breeder is able to protect cucumbers from pests yet
Often, gardeners themselves unwittingly contribute to the appearance of pests. The risk of infection is greatly increased when:
Cucumbers are to the taste of many "universal" pests that do not disdain most plantings in the garden.
Slugs
These pests are fairly easy to identify. Despite the fact that they are mainly nocturnal, slugs leave characteristic traces in the form of through holes in the fruits and traces of a sticky viscous liquid that casts silver in the sun. I don’t want to eat such cucumbers (and other fruits spoiled by them).
Slugs are relatively easy to deal with. Since they do not differ in speed of movement and ability to mimicry, manual collection of pests is quite effective. The procedure is best done in the early morning when they are least active.
You can create an almost impassable barrier for pests by surrounding cucumber bushes with several rings of sand, wood ash, soda ash, spruce needles, ground eggshells, and so on. The delicate body of slugs does not have even minimal protection.
Very effective and homemade traps. Deep containers are dug into the ground, the upper edge of which should be flush with the soil. They are filled with sugar syrup, jam, beer. Slugs are well caught on cabbage leaves or grapefruit cut in half.
There are also special preparations - Meta, Thunderstorm, Slug Eater. But it is worth remembering that it is forbidden to use any chemicals during fruiting and at least 20 days before the expected harvest, it is undesirable - during flowering and the formation of ovaries. This does not apply to biological products, the effects of which disappear in 2-3 days.
Slugs leave traces of a sticky, shiny liquid on cucumbers.
whitefly
Whiteflies look like moths - these small whitish, yellowish or grayish butterflies stick around the leaves of cucumber bushes from the inside, rising into the air in a cloud at the slightest touch to the plant. Most often, greenhouse cucumbers suffer from them. Whitefly larvae feed on plant sap, and adults are carriers of many bacteria and viruses that are dangerous to them, such as cucumber mosaic.
The hardest part is keeping the whiteflies out of the greenhouse. To do this, the windows and doors are curtained with a mesh with small cells or ordinary gauze. If it was not possible to avoid the appearance of pests, sticky tape for catching flies or homemade traps are hung next to the plantings. For some reason, the whitefly is very partial to the color yellow. This feature of it is used by smearing pieces of cardboard with some kind of adhesive substance.
Tobacco planted on a cucumber bed is guaranteed to attract attention. Then these bushes can be treated with a suitable insecticide - Actellik, Aktara, Fitoverm.
Whitefly mainly affects cucumbers growing in greenhouses and hotbeds.
gall nematode
The females of these worms lay their eggs in the soil. The larvae choose roots as their habitat - characteristic spherical swellings of various sizes appear on them. Then they turn brown, unnaturally thicken, become brittle. If you do not change the soil in the garden or in the greenhouse for a long time, any crops grown on it will suffer from the mass reproduction of nematodes. They are especially dangerous for cucumbers with their not too developed root system. The situation is aggravated by the fact that it is almost impossible to notice the appearance of nematodes in a timely manner. Their presence becomes apparent only when many plants have already been affected. Therefore, special attention should be paid to prevention:
Cucumber roots affected by gall nematode look completely unnatural
The wireworm, also known as the larva of the click beetle, can most often be found on beds with potatoes and carrots. But if there is an active fight with him, he may well switch to cucumbers. Omnivorous larvae destroy the planted seeds, gnaw the roots.
As part of the fight against wireworms, in late spring and early summer, as well as in autumn, they deeply loosen the soil in the beds, at the same time introducing slaked lime, dolomite flour, wood ash, crushed chalk, powdered eggshells. All this neutralizes the increased acidity of the soil. It is in such soil that the wireworm feels best.
He also does not like high nitrogen content. But it is not recommended to get involved in fertilizers, which include this macronutrient. This goes to the detriment of the future harvest. It is better to plant any legumes next to cucumbers.
For prevention, 0.5 liters of a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate are poured into the wells prepared for planting seeds or seedlings. And cut potatoes or carrots are buried in the ground to a depth of 15–20 cm. After 2-3 days, the root crop must be removed (for this, a long stick is first stuck into it) and the larvae must be collected.
The wireworm's favorite crops are potatoes and carrots, but it may well switch to cucumbers.
A fairly large insect feels most comfortable in nutritious, well-moistened soil. It is this soil that is provided to cucumbers in greenhouses and greenhouses. Medvedki live mainly underground, in the process of moving, they gnaw through all the roots that come across along the way.
They can be dealt with mechanically without resorting to dangerous chemicals. Effectively deep digging of the soil in spring and autumn, manual collection of pests, pouring vegetable oil or soap solution into the tunnels found underground. You can also build traps - containers with water, corn or millet porridge. Marigolds are planted in a greenhouse or in a garden mixed with cucumbers - the bears do not like their sharp aroma very much.
In the process of movement, the bear gnaws through any roots that come across in its path.
thrips
Thrips are small sucking insects. Adult individuals are painted black, have the shape of an elongated ellipse with pointed ends. Pests are dangerous because at the same time insects are present on the plant at different stages of development.
They are easily identified by beige-silver "scratches" and blurry yellowish or almost colorless spots on the underside of the sheet. Sticky traps are effective against adults, but not yellow, but blue. Regular weeding is also very important. For prevention, cucumber bushes are sprayed with infusions of garlic, onions, any sharp-smelling herbs, orange peel. In the absence of effect, insecticides are used - Aktar, Fury, Calypso, Inta-Vir.
Thrips are easy to recognize but hard to get rid of.
Of course, the list of pests dangerous for cucumbers is not limited to this. The most common are the following.
Video: pests typical of cucumbers
How to spray from melon aphids
Aphids are small yellowish or dark green insects that cover the underside of leaves, buds, fruit ovaries, and the tops of young shoots with whole colonies. They feed on plant sap. As a result, the leaves wrinkle, deform, the buds fall off. The cucumber bush practically stops growing, then dries and dies. Aphids are dangerous not only in themselves - they carry many dangerous microorganisms, for example, soot fungus.
Melon aphid - a pest that is very easy to notice
If the problem is noticed in a timely manner, when the aphids are still a little, you can simply wash it off the bush by pouring water over the cucumbers from the hose with a stream of water under strong pressure. If there is no technical possibility, the leaves are simply wiped with soapy foam.
Melon aphid in a dense layer sticks to young cucumber leaves
Processing cucumbers from aphids with folk remedies
Folk remedies are good mainly for the prevention of aphids. Cucumbers growing in a greenhouse are sprayed with appropriate solutions every 7–10 days, in open ground - after each rain. Any product with a strong pungent odor will do. He is very unpleasant.
An infusion of onion peel, like other products with pungent odors, is an effective remedy against melon aphids
Other methods of struggle
If time is lost, and the pest has bred en masse, the most affected leaves and whole lashes are cut off and burned as quickly as possible. The remaining plants in the greenhouse are fumigated with sulfur bombs, in the open field they are sprayed with a solution of Karbofos (50 g per 10 l of water) or dusted with colloidal sulfur powder.
When there is no effect, insecticides are used. Against aphids, mainly broad-spectrum preparations are used - Inta-Vir, Fitoverm, Aktar, Confidor, Fufanon, Karate. Biological preparations cause less harm to plants - Biotlin, Iskra-Bio, Strela (fruits can be eaten 2-3 days after spraying). The plant treatment solution is prepared in strict accordance with the instructions given by the manufacturer in the instructions. The procedure is repeated every 4-7 days until the pest is completely destroyed. It is advisable to change the drugs in this case.
Herbs are a good defense against aphids. You can surround the beds or plant basil, coriander, lemon balm, mint, dill mixed with bushes. Dope and henbane will also help, but they are very poisonous. Most of these plants are good honey plants and attract natural enemies of aphids - ladybugs - to the garden. By the way, if you wish, you can simply collect them somewhere and release them into a greenhouse or garden beds.
Inta-Vir is one of the most common broad-spectrum insecticides.
Do not forget that aphids live in a stable symbiosis with ants. The latter will also have to be fought. From the anthills found next to the bed, the top layer of the earth (5–7 cm) is removed and the soil is sprinkled with soda ash, mustard, hot pepper, boric acid, or the soil is shed with a solution of special preparations, for example, Anteater or ordinary boiling water.
Video: measures to combat aphids in the garden
Spider mite is a dangerous garden pest that affects most plants. They themselves are almost invisible, but thin, translucent cobwebs, braiding leaf petioles, buds and tops of shoots, are striking. The spider mite feeds on plant sap, so the affected parts quickly turn yellow, dry and die. At first, only small yellowish or translucent spots are visible on them. It also spreads a fungus that causes a very dangerous disease - gray rot.
It is quite difficult to notice the spider mite itself with the naked eye, but the traces of its vital activity are clearly visible.
The pest feels best in a dry, hot climate, so they create unacceptable conditions for it in the greenhouse by increasing the humidity of the air and regularly ventilating the room.
Plants affected by spider mites quickly turn yellow and dry out.
Prevention and control at an early stage
It is impossible to cope with spider mites with folk remedies. Onion, garlic, pepper infusions are used mainly for prevention. Plants are treated every 5-12 days. It depends on how hot it is outside. The warmer it is, the more intensively spider mites multiply. You can also place several containers with kerosene, turpentine, acetic acid in the greenhouse. If cucumbers grow in open ground, this method is less effective.
When a tick is detected on time, spraying with 3% hydrogen peroxide (40 ml per liter of water) or ammonia (5–7 ml per liter) can help. The leaves of diseased plants are powdered with tobacco dust, colloidal sulfur or sifted wood ash. The following herbs are also quite effective:
Cucumbers are processed with prepared decoctions and infusions using a drip irrigation system. You can not carry out processing under the bright sun, the best time for it is early morning or late evening.
Datura is a fairly effective remedy for spider mites, but it is a strong poison for people and pets.
Experienced gardeners advise planting tomatoes and cabbage mixed with cucumbers.
In the event of a massive invasion
The spider mite is not an insect, so general insecticides will not work to combat it. It is necessary to use special preparations - acaricides (Akarin, Agravertin, Floromite, Apollo, Sunmite). There are also less dangerous means of biological origin - Vertimek, Kleshchevit, Fitoverm. The spider mite develops immunity very quickly, so it is advisable to use a new remedy for each subsequent treatment. Before the procedure, cucumber bushes must be cleaned of the cobwebs on them. She retains drops of water, preventing them from getting on the plant itself.
The first time after wintering, spider mite larvae live on weeds, so weeding should be given special attention. It is best to cut and burn the affected leaves immediately, and fumigate the greenhouse or garden bed for prevention with sulfur checkers or sprinkle the soil with colloidal sulfur.
Antiklesch - one of the safest acaricides
The safest means of dealing with spider mites for the future crop and ecology is its natural enemy. Phytosailus mites are released onto the beds or into greenhouses next to the affected plants. It is very effective in destroying pest egg clutches. It is desirable to increase the population of "helpers" every 20-25 days.
Video: fighting spider mites on cucumbers
How to treat cruciferous (black) flea
The cruciferous flea is a small (up to 3 mm) bug of black color and rounded shape, most often with a glossy shiny shell that shimmers in green or blue. Pests are active already in the middle of spring, when the air temperature rises to 12-15ºС. The larvae are not particularly picky, feeding on roots and greens. The leaves quickly turn into a sieve and dry.
The black flea is easily identified by its long legs.
The main thing in the fight against cruciferous flea is to correctly calculate the time. Early varieties of cucumbers are planted as early as possible (in April), late-ripening - later (in the second decade of July). Thus, until the beginning of May or mid-August, when the mass appearance of these insects is noted, cucumber bushes will have time not only to grow, but also to “roughen” slightly. The pest prefers young soft leaves, so there is every chance that the flea will “pass by”.
The black flea got its official name due to the fact that, before the availability of more suitable food, it feeds on weeds from the Cruciferous family (colza, shepherd's purse, wild radish). Therefore, you need to regularly weed the beds. Any covering material - spunbond, lutrasil, agrospan - will also be effective protection. It is desirable to pull it on arcs and remove it when the bushes are strong enough.
Black flea turns cucumber leaves into a real sieve
The black flea is very sensitive to strong odors. Therefore, cucumbers in the greenhouse and in the open field alternate with dill, garlic, basil, coriander. The beds are surrounded by a "barrier" of marigolds, nasturtiums, calendula, wormwood.
Folk remedies
The experience of many gardeners shows that the black flea rarely attacks “dirty” plants. Therefore, cucumber bushes, especially young ones, are regularly sprinkled with crushed chalk or activated carbon, sifted wood ash, tobacco dust, and hot pepper. The powder is poured into a gauze bag and shaken over the plants. It is best to carry out the procedure early in the morning when the leaves are still damp. In the grooves between the bushes, naphthalene is scattered in moderation.
For spraying, solutions of the following agents are used:
Infusion of chicken manure is not only an effective remedy against black flea, but also a useful top dressing
You can also hang “flags” made of cloth smeared with something sticky next to the bushes. In the very heat, it is useful to walk along the beds with such a trap, swinging it so as to touch the leaves. Disturbed insects, jumping in different directions, stick to the fabric.
Even to combat the black flea, it is recommended to use used engine oil (they lubricate pieces of plywood or cardboard, leave them in the aisles) or a conventional vacuum cleaner. Early in the morning, when the pests are least active, they can walk through the plants. Flea shampoo intended for pets (50 ml per 10 liters of water) is also successfully used.
Proper care is important. Cucumbers need abundant watering (the black flea does not like high humidity), proper feeding (nitrogen-containing fertilizers are needed - natural organics, ammonium nitrate, urea), regular loosening of the beds.
Insecticides to combat the black flea are used only in mass attacks of insects. Most of them (for example, Lightning, Decis) are quite toxic and destroy not only pests, but also young cucumber seedlings. Arrivo, Aktara, Sherpa are the safest for humans. Treatments are carried out in the late evening, when fleas accumulate on the leaves.
Insecticides against black flea are used only as a last resort.
Preventive measures
Often, the attacks of harmful insects on cucumber beds become possible thanks to the gardener himself. Most often, this is facilitated by mistakes made in care. A set of simple preventive measures will help minimize the risk of infection:
Compliance with the recommendations for the care of cucumbers is an important preventive measure that effectively prevents the appearance of pests.
During the season, cucumbers can be sprayed for prevention. The procedure is carried out approximately once a week. If they grow in open ground - after each rain. Most often, folk remedies are used - they can be used without restrictions, the crop will not suffer in any way. To enhance the effect, a little shavings of household or green potassium soap are added to the finished solution - this way it “sticks” to plants better.
Wood ash infusion is a 100% natural fertilizer, a source of potassium and phosphorus
Prevention in the cucumber garden is carried out throughout the gardening season. It begins in April with the preparation of soil and seeds. In May, work begins in greenhouses and greenhouses to ensure an optimal microclimate, the soil must be disinfected before planting. Further prevention is to follow the recommendations for caring for plants.
If breeders can protect new hybrids of cucumbers from some pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria, then they are still unable to do anything against insect pests. However, a set of simple preventive measures helps to minimize the risk of infection. If it was not possible to avoid them, nothing irreparable has yet happened. The main thing is to correctly identify the problem, start dealing with it in time and competently. In this case, the crop may well be saved.
Every year, most gardeners encounter pests of cucumbers. The future harvest and plant health depend on a quick response to the appearance of harmful insects. There are several pest prevention and control methods that you need to be aware of in order to save cucumbers.
Cucumber pests with photos and descriptions
The main pests of cucumbers include: melon aphids, ants, gall nematodes, whiteflies, spider mites, bears, cucumber mosquitoes, tobacco thrips, slugs, wireworms and rodents.
This is a homoptera, sucking pest about 2 millimeters in size. It can have a different color, both yellow and dark green. The larvae overwinter in fallen leaves, weeds, and anthills. Ants are the most common carriers of aphids. The defeat of cucumber bushes occurs in July - August. Aphids suck out the juices of plants and, releasing poison, infects shoots and leaves.
Signs of appearance: wilting and shedding of flowers, ovaries; drying, wrinkling of leaves; slow fruit growth. Aphids are carriers of various diseases, which makes them especially dangerous.
Fighting folk methods
As an effective folk method is spraying the bushes with a tincture of bitter red pepper.
This requires 20 liters of water, 60 grams of chopped pepper, 400 grams of tobacco dust. The mixture should be infused for 1 day, then filtered. A tablespoon of any liquid soap and 300 grams of ash are added to it. 2-3 liters of infusion is required per square meter.
Garlic infusion is prepared as follows:
2 liters of water and 400 grams of chopped garlic are taken. You need to insist the mixture for 4 days. After that, everything is diluted with water at the rate of 60 grams per 2 buckets of water. The amount of infusion can be increased or decreased depending on the planting area. Per square meter requires 30 grams of infusion.
You can also use this infusion:
the solution is prepared from 400 grams of ash, 100 grams of soap and 20 liters of water. The mixture must be insisted and filtered. Processing of plants is made from a spray gun.
For a decoction of celandine
2 liters of water and 800 grams of plucked leaves of the plant are taken. Everything is mixed and infused for a day. Then the infusion should be boiled for half an hour. The whole ground part of the plants is sprayed with a decoction.
Chemistry
A faster and more effective way to combat aphids is to use chemicals such as Fitoverm, Aktofit, Komandor, Iskra and Karbofos.
Prevention
- It is not recommended to plant cucumbers near viburnum, linden, petunias, legumes, as their aroma attracts pests.
- The neighborhood of cucumber beds with onions, mint, garlic, fennel, lavender, mustard can scare away the pest.
- The destruction of weeds and organic residues on the site avoids pest damage and is the best prevention.
But eating, spoiling seedlings and fruits, the transfer of aphids leads to the need to remove these insects from the site.
To get rid of ants, you need to mix boric acid and sugar, and spread it over the site.
Chemistry
For the destruction of ants, chemicals are used: Anteater, Thunder 2, Ant, Muratsid.
Prevention
When the aphids are destroyed, the ants themselves leave the site.
The neighborhood of cucumbers with garlic, elderberry, mint, mustard repel insects.
By destroying the nest, you can naturally get rid of insects. The anthill can be dug up or poured with boiling water with the addition of vinegar, shampoo and vegetable oil (2 cups of vinegar are taken per bucket of water).
These are small round worms of white or pearl color, 2 millimeters long. The root nematode damages the plant at an air temperature of 24-30 degrees Celsius and 60-65% humidity. The pest lives in the ground and through it damages plants.
When affected, the leaves and shoots twist, thin and weak roots are formed, covered with swellings, and the growth of the bushes slows down.
To check for the presence of a nematode in the ground, you need to sow the seeds of cucumbers. After 2.5-3 weeks after germination, seedlings are dug up to check the roots. In the presence of a pest, they are easy to notice on the surface of damaged roots.
The pest impairs the metabolism in the bushes. They lose nutrients, which leads to a decrease in their productivity.
Fighting folk methods
Heat treatment of the root system allows you to completely destroy pests. Adults and larvae die at a water temperature of +40 degrees. To do this, the bushes need to be dug up and dipped for 12-15 minutes in heated water up to 50-55 degrees.
Chemistry
To remove the nematode, drugs are used: Mercaptophos, Ruskamin, Phosphamide. Plants are processed 4 times.
Prevention
As a preventive measure, the acquired seedlings must be treated with Parathion. Cucumber roots are lowered into the diluted liquid for 12-15 minutes. Before planting, the soil must be shed with hot water, treated with ultraviolet light or calcined in the oven for 2 hours.
Removing weeds and fertilizing the soil with cow dung naturally protects cucumbers from gall nematodes.
This is a white butterfly, 3 mm long. Both insects and their larvae are dangerous for plants. The butterfly appears in humid, warm summers. The whitefly overwinters in greenhouses and greenhouses, where there is practically no ventilation and high humidity is always maintained. Insects and larvae suck sap from plants, slowing down their growth. The feces of these insects corrode the leaves, which subsequently turn black and dry completely.
Finding whiteflies is easy. On examination, you can see a small midge, similar to a small moth. When plants are affected, growth slows down, the leaves turn yellow, curl, the reverse side of the leaves are covered with small scales, and the surface is covered with a shiny sticky coating.
Fighting folk methods
To drive out the whitefly, 500 grams of chopped onion or garlic and a liter of boiling water are taken. Infused 12 hours. Then it is filtered. Plants are sprayed with this infusion for a week.
Garlic infusion is prepared as follows: 120 grams of chopped garlic is taken for 2 buckets of water. The solution must be insisted for a day. Processing is done once a week until the pests are completely destroyed.
You can use a soapy solution: 1 part of laundry soap must be crushed and dissolved in 6 parts of water. The solution is whipped and applied with a brush or sponge to the leaves. This method is suitable for use in greenhouses, greenhouses or small areas in the garden.
To prepare an infusion of tobacco, you need to take 50 grams of crushed tobacco per 1 liter of boiling water.
Infused in a dark place for 5 days. After the infusion is filtered and used every 3 days.
Chemistry
To quickly and effectively eliminate insects, insecticides are used: Konfidor, Aktara, Fitoverm, Akarin, Mospilan, Iskra and Aktellik.
Prevention
Prevention in this case is standard.
This is an arachnid pest, up to 1 mm in size, feeding on plant sap. It gets on cucumbers from the soil or is carried on clothes, tools, by the wind, with water. The pest loves low humidity and dry air. False spider mites prefer high humidity. With severe damage, mites lead to plant disease and death.
You can recognize a pest on a plant by small white dots and a transparent thin cobweb on stems, leaves and fruits.
Fighting folk methods
To prepare garlic infusion, you need to chop 4 heads of garlic, add 2 liters of water and insist everything for 5 days. After that, everything is diluted with water 1: 1. Spraying is done in the evening.
Another infusion: 200 grams of husk is poured with a bucket of water and infused for 5 days, then filtered and used for spraying.
Chemistry
For large areas of damage, chemicals are used, such as: Actellik, Neoron, Fitoverm, Karbofos, Apollo.
Prevention
Regular top dressing and spraying with protective preparations can avoid the appearance of a tick on the site.
This is a large burrowing dark brown insect, up to 8 centimeters long. This pest lives in warm regions. Medvedka is capable of destroying a significant number of landings in a short time. The pest enters the area with cucumbers through the ground.
If the seeds do not germinate well, the seedlings fall, dry, and passages are visible in the ground, then these are clear signs of the appearance of a bear.
Fighting folk methods
If seedlings are planted in cups with a cut bottom, the bear cannot harm the cucumbers.
For a trap with water, a 0.5 liter jar and a little liquid are taken. It must be buried in the ground up to the neck. Bears love dampness and drown in water.
Chemistry
The most drugs for the fight: Nemabaktin, Boverin, Medvetoks, Thunder, Bazudin, Aktara, Prestige.
Prevention
When a bear appears, the introduction of compost, humus and manure into the soil must be completely abandoned.
The smell of cilantro and garlic repel the pest. Mulching the soil makes it difficult for the bear to move in the ground and leads to its death.
This insect is the main enemy of tobacco. However, it also harms cucumbers. The length of the insect is 1 millimeter. The coloration is greyish-yellow. Thrips females infect cucumber bushes by laying eggs in the leaves. Insects and larvae suck juice from flowers and plants. Cucumbers with a strong defeat dry up.
You can determine the presence of insects by yellowish-brown spots on the foliage. Leaves curl up and dry. Plant growth slows down.
Fighting folk methods
The use of mites (Neoseyulus), orius bugs allows you to eliminate the larvae and further spread of thrips.
An infusion of onion peel is prepared as follows: you need to take a two-liter volume of peel and 4 liters of water. Infused for 2 days. After the soap is mixed, 12 liters of water. All plants are processed with infusion.
Chemistry
Chemicals for fighting: Ankara, Iskra, Fufanon, Commander Maxi.
Prevention
Frequent watering, cleaning plant residues, destruction of weeds help to avoid the appearance of pests.
Gastropods appear on plantings after heavy rains. They are difficult to remove mechanically. They feed and move around the site only at night. Slugs eat young, green plants, causing them to become sick and weak.
Fighting folk methods
Sprinkle aisles with cilantro, rosemary, parsley or allspice.
Beer cans can be used as traps. The container must be buried up to the neck. Pests will be attracted by the smell and they will crawl into the jar and drown.
Chemistry
To eliminate slugs from a larger area, the use of chemicals is required: Slug Eater, Meta, Thunderstorm, Ferramol, Etisso. Instead of these drugs, you can use calcium-containing supplements that repel slugs.
Prevention
Mulching the ground with sawdust is the best prevention against these pests.
The pest prefers potatoes and carrots, but sometimes it also feasts on cucumber roots. Chemicals are useless in this case.
The eggs of the female are laid in the upper layer of the earth in May - July. Loosening the soil allows you to remove the pest. Deep autumn digging of the soil contributes to the freezing of larvae and insects. The introduction of nitrogen fertilizers, ash and the strait of earth with potassium permanganate help to avoid pest damage. Neighborhood with legumes repel the pest.
Rats, mice eat ripe fruits, plant roots and carry a variety of diseases.
Fighting folk methods
Folk remedies for eliminating rodents are mousetraps, cats and hedgehogs.
Medicinal black root, dried elderberry repel pests.
Chemistry
If the roots and fruits are damaged, to fight rodents, you need to use: Rat death, Mortorat, Krysid, Goliath.
Prevention
Careful cleaning of plants from the site in the fall allows you to minimize the appearance of mice, rats.
Cucumber pests in the greenhouse - treatment features
The dark gray cucumber mosquito lives in greenhouses. The length of the insect is 5 millimeters. The pest is brought into the greenhouse with the ground, in the form of a chrysalis. The larvae make holes in the roots and cotyledons of young plants. Mosquitoes are carriers of diseases and expose plants to great danger. Plant growth slows down, they wither, the root part rots, turgor is lost and the bushes die.
To combat the pest, you can use yellow Velcro. This color attracts insects. If pests stick, the tape can be simply removed.
To prevent their appearance, the soil must be shed with boiling water with the addition of potassium permanganate before planting.
When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, you can get rid of the whitefly simply by lowering the air temperature to 10 degrees and humidity to 80%.
To combat aphids, you can use ladybugs, they feed on these pests.
After the destruction of the aphids, the ants immediately leave the greenhouse.
To eliminate slugs, you can sharply lower the temperature to 10 degrees, which does not harm cucumbers, but is detrimental to pests.
The natural enemies of the tick are phytoseiulus and amblyseius, which are not harmful to plants or humans. This method is ideal when growing cucumbers in greenhouses, greenhouses.
Disinfection of the soil allows you to get rid of pests. Heat treatment of the earth, yellow adhesive tapes and spraying of the basal collar and lower part of the stem with chemicals save the plants.
It is necessary to use chemicals in a closed space in a smaller amount and using a respirator!
If other insects are used in the greenhouse for pest control, chemicals should be avoided.
When carrying out preventive work, you can protect the site from the appearance of any pests. Autumn cleaning of the site, burning tops and cleaning weeds is the main rule that reduces the risk of pests in the garden.
Diseases and pests of cucumbers and methods of dealing with them: video
Posted by: admin | on February 14, 2014 Particularly dangerous are the invasions of the bivostok on the seedlings of cucumbers, cabbage and tomatoes, which dries up on the vine. Poison and cats catch well. If they pull out the seeds, then these are most likely magpies. I have these tricks of ants and naked slugs.
In our climate it is possible even now. Make grooves 5-6 cm deep around the holes. Two-tails damage beets, peas, radishes and many other vegetable crops.
Medvedka is a big gourmet and will climb into the bottle for the smell of beer, she gnaws a bandage. The neck of the bottle should be at a depth of 4-5 cm.
Timely destroy the plant debris that serve as their refuge. Arrange traps: spread boards around the perimeter of the garden, spread weeds and wet rags between damaged plants. She will not be able to get out of the bottle, so the neck must be raised.
Earwigs are often mistakenly called two-tailed among the people. Set up traps: lay boards around the perimeter of the garden, spread weeds and wet rags between damaged plants. She will not be able to get out of the bottle, so the neck must be raised.
The two-tailed insect is the scientific name of the common earwig. Whoever has a bear in the region - sin on her. Method of struggle: it is necessary to boil the wheat and add special there. Make grooves 5-6 cm deep around the holes.
It is necessary to clear the site of debris, rotting wood. In the conditions of our area, garlic is ready for harvesting by mid-July. It is checked that a lot of bears climb into the bottle.
People, well, where have you seen toothy worms and vegetarian moles! With a high number of two-tails, they can completely destroy young plants. Leave your grandmother's tales - ants chew the earth, and moles are predators. It is necessary to clear the site of debris, rotting wood.
In clinical nutrition, cucumbers are used for obesity and diabetes. The two-tailed insect is the scientific name of the common earwig. You can also pour a little beer into a glass bottle, tie the neck with a bandage so that the earth does not pour in and bury the bottle in the garden.
Someone eats cucumber seeds in the garden? Neither one nor the other indulges in such leprosy! Come on, it won't get any worse. Before sowing, the seeds are sorted in water or 5% sodium chloride solution. The neck of the bottle should be at a depth of 4-5 cm.
If you plant seedlings, they eat the root and everything dies. Sprouted seeds and young seedlings are gnawed by a bear. We made this ourselves, moles no longer bother! From them there are special turntables that rattle. Or scattered manure, or a pile of dung nearby somewhere.
You can also pour some beer into a glass bottle, tie the neck with a bandage so that the earth does not pour in and bury the bottle in the garden. Method of struggle: it is necessary to boil the wheat and add special there.
Please remember this, everyone.Posted in Cucumbers | Discussion is closedCucumbers are a favorite vegetable on any table. But this fruit will be even tastier if you grow it with your own hands.
Cucumbers are planted with seedlings, which are prepared in the spring at home. Before you start growing cucumbers, you need to learn more about the whole process of work in more detail, armed with tips. The scheme for planting cucumbers in a garden with drip irrigation.
When and why to plant seedlings
The process of adding soil to the elongated seedlings. Every year, gardeners are tormented by the question of the correct choice of time for planting prepared seedlings. Indeed, on the one hand, you want to plant everything faster in order to enjoy the harvest earlier, and on the other hand, if you plant seedlings of cucumbers too early, there is a risk that it will freeze in unforeseen frosts and there will be no harvest. Various calendars with planting dates come to the aid of gardeners and recommendations printed directly on bags of seeds of one or another variety of cucumbers or any other vegetable.
But you should always rely on your experience of previous years, focusing on natural climatic changes. Cucumber seedlings are planted in the spring. In order to grow cucumbers and enjoy them for as long as possible, it is necessary to protect them even at the stage of inception.
That is, seedlings should not be rushed in any case. After all, the root system of cucumbers is very weak and not a single procedure will help make it stronger. Only supports and garters can help. It is important to remember that cucumbers are grown from seeds, which, by the way, germinate very quickly, so you should not rush into planting them, as long-term protection at home will make cucumber seedlings even weaker.
How seedlings are planted
The temperature regime for growing cucumbers. It is not so difficult to plant seedlings and grow them. Of course, many sow seeds directly into the ground, and many manage to reap good yields.
But still, planting ready-made seedlings is much more reliable. Seedlings are grown in small containers with soil, where seeds are laid in 2-3 pieces. So you can increase the likelihood of a sprout.
As soon as the seedlings appear, everything superfluous must be removed so that nothing interferes with growth. Gardeners prefer to plant cucumbers in the ground, starting with individual small cups, followed by transplanting the grown seedlings into larger containers. Although others adhere to the position that they can be sown initially in a large container and not disturb the sprouts with the transplanting process. It is undesirable to use clay soil for growing seedlings, but this is not a problem, because you can now buy any soil with various additives, fertilizers and so on in stores. Many have their own excellent land, which is just being used.
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Ways to plant cucumbers, seed selection
Planting potted seedlings: a - formation of a hole; b - a hole filled with water; c - placement of seedlings in the hole; d - planting a pot with seedlings. Cucumbers are grown in open ground, but the most commonly used option is to pre-grow seedlings at home. Both methods guarantee an excellent harvest.
The choice of one of them depends only on the personal preferences of a particular gardener, because each of the methods has both pros and cons. If there is a real opportunity to prepare seedlings at home, then it is best to do this and plant cucumbers on the street already sprouted. In addition, before planting cucumbers, it is important to choose the right and good seeds. Currently, there are a huge number of various varieties and hybrids, so there will be plenty to choose from. Very often, experienced gardeners prepare their seeds rather than buying them from a store.
Growing seedlings at home
Agrotechnical methods of growing cucumber. It is believed that in order to get tasty, beautiful, ripe and in large quantities cucumbers, it is necessary not only to properly care for them, but also to grow and plant them correctly for a start. Gardeners know that the harvest will be more generous if seedlings are prepared in advance for planting.
Cucumbers can also be grown at home, so preparing seedlings will not be difficult. You need to know not only how to grow cucumbers, but also take into account all the nuances of this process, then your cucumbers will be of excellent quality. Growing seedlings at home will take about 3 weeks (minimum 20 days). Given this fact, it is necessary to calculate the time when seedlings can be planted, so that when they are ready, they will have a real opportunity to transplant them into closed (or open) ground.
The process of growing seedlings begins with the preparation of seeds, their germination and planting in small separate containers. Growing seedlings at home has its own characteristics in the process of growing and care, which must be known and taken into account so as not to ruin the seedlings and not be left without a crop.
- Since the root system of the cucumber sprout is very weak, the transplanting process is undesirable for them. In order to avoid injury when transplanting seedlings into the ground, it is recommended to grow seedlings in special cardboard pots that are perfectly torn during transplantation without damaging the root system. with the least risk to the roots. Selected seedling containers are filled with substrates (nutrient mixture needed for seedlings, which can be purchased at a gardening store). Although experienced gardeners prepare this mixture on their own from peat, humus and sawdust. Glasses with planted seeds must be stored in a warm place where the temperature regime provides for a mark of at least 25 ° C. Seedlings should be watered once a week and only with warm water. Before the sprouts appear, the containers must be covered with a film to avoid evaporation of moisture. In such an environment, seedlings make themselves felt already on the 5-6th day. If the temperature is lower, then the germination process will be noticeably delayed, for example, the first shoots will be only 10 days later. In cases where 2 sprouts appear at once in one cup, the weakest of them must be removed, but not by pulling, but by cutting (to damage to the root system). Cucumbers will germinate if the necessary amount of light, the complete absence of drafts, the required temperature and mandatory top dressing are provided.
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The process of planting finished seedlings in the ground
Planting seedlings under frameless film shelters: 1 - central earthen roller; 2 - side rollers; 3 - furrow; 4 - seedlings; 5 - film. Seedlings ready for planting are considered to be sprouts with 2-3 green leaves and a root system that has filled the entire container. Planting seedlings occurs both in open and closed (greenhouse) soil. It is very important to prepare seedlings for transplanting to a new place and new conditions.
Indeed, in the ground, the seedlings will be subject to a lower temperature, so you need to adapt it and increase its level of frost resistance. This procedure begins about a week before you plant it.
To begin with, the temperature drops to about 16 ° C, and then the seedlings can be rearranged into the open air. In no case should cucumbers (already bushes) be left in the sun.
If cucumbers grow in open ground, then it is recommended to plant seedlings from May 10 to 15. Cucumbers planted in open ground are necessarily covered with a film.
Growing cucumbers in open ground (planting seedlings)
The device of a vertical bed with intensive watering. Cucumbers are planted in open ground only with seedlings. Cultivation is carried out using two methods, each of which will require the preparation of beds.
- Horizontal landing. Cucumbers with this method of cultivation creep along the ground. Planting takes place in round holes, located at a sufficient distance. Vertical planting method. Planting cucumbers takes place on narrow long beds. In this case, it is required to provide support (special nets or ropes along which the plants will trail and climb up). This method requires the provision of a sufficient amount of light, especially in the case of organizing several beds at once, in order to prevent plants from being blocked from the sun's rays.
Each gardener has the right to choose a suitable and more convenient method of planting for him. But it is worth noting that often hybrids are designed only for a vertical landing method.
It is important to know and remember that with any method, thorough soil preparation is required. So, the soil should ideally be a layer cake. Soil preparation takes place taking into account the characteristics of the root system of a particular plant. Cucumbers have a superficial root system, so the beds are prepared in this way:
- layer 1 of coniferous spruce branches or chopped brushwood; layer 2 of compost; layer 4 of sawdust or straw; layer 5 of a small amount of manure (or humus with ash); layer 6 of 20 cm of earth from the garden.
Approximately 2 days before planting seedlings, the bed is well spilled with hot water (preferably boiling water) and covered with a film. If it is not possible to wait a couple of days, then planting is done immediately after watering, while the ground is still warm (and preferably hot). It is important to find a suitable place in the garden for the beds.
It is necessary to take into account the fact that cucumbers should not be planted where other vegetables have grown before, as there is a risk of infecting cucumbers with viruses left over from another crop. Acceptable vegetables after which cucumbers can be grown are potatoes, tomatoes, beans, peas or cabbage.
It is very important to disinfect the soil before planting cucumbers. This procedure is carried out using copper sulfate, with a solution of which the beds are shed (in the ratio of water to copper sulfate - 10 liters per 1 tbsp. L). It is important not to forget that cucumbers love moisture very much.
The more often they are watered, the tastier they become. The fruits are harvested as they grow. If the variety of grown cucumbers suits you, at the end of summer you will need to collect seeds for the next year. add a photo Show previous comments (%s of %s shown) Valentina Kravchenko And I have an ascended onion in some places "trimmed".
It seems that onions are a bitter thing, but someone likes it! .. I also watched the birds, and loosened the ground around the bulbs in order to find insects, but so far to no avail. Text hiddenExpand
Laura S I also eat planted seedlings this way, this year the cabbage is all cut off. These are fat caterpillars, I don’t know what they are called ... I find them in the holes where the seedlings are cut, in the upper layer of the earth. Text hiddenExpand
Elena Igorevna - Laura S Either a scoop or a Khrushchev, give a photo, let's say who the text is hiddenexpand Laura S R. S. By the way, they not only eat up vegetable seedlings, I also cut tulips and gladioli.
Text hiddenExpand Galina Gubina (Maslova) Our cat ate a tomato seedling once! They also thought for a long time - who will seed the EU? Then a cat was caught at the crime scene!
tatyana elistratova (bibina) we also had a similar story. Then they found a nest of mice voles. Text hiddenExpand
21 May 12, at 18:17 Zaremma Tyurina (----------------… Girls, I don’t know where you live, but we have been attacked in Tula for several years now from the white beetle of the Maybug. Everyone eats: tomatoes, and cabbage, and cucumbers, and strawberries, etc. We don’t even know how to save ourselves. Nothing takes them.
The text is hiddenexpand 21 May 12, at 19:06 natalia yul We had such a problem, and black beetles turned out to be the culprits, we say * dung beetle *. They divorced a lot in those years ...
I walked around the garden and dug up minks ... It's good that there were only 6 acres .. The text is hiddenexpand
Ivan Ivanov No one paid attention to the dirty tricks of ordinary black crickets, which are nothing but locusts! Lone Wolf So much has been written ... I'm lost in conjectures ...
We have almost all these misfortunes in our garden ... and beetles, and crickets, and mice, voles, and dung beetles, and ubiquitous cats roam, and some kind of gray-brown caterpillars, and someone digs not deep, but not a bear, bigger ... some kind of animal. All this was many years, but only this year, as someone cut the tomato shoots, only 0.5-0.7 mm stumps remained, at the stage of cotyledon leaves.
Of course, the growth point is destroyed and everything is gone. And those seeds that "sat too long", or rather "stale" longer in the soil, were perhaps buried deeper, subsequently sprouted and remained intact (but very little remained). And so think...
Who is this pest? This has never happened before! This year for the first time! Elena Igorevna - Lone Wolf I cut the seedlings (it was processed, perhaps that’s why they didn’t touch it, it remained to lie cut side by side) cut off - it grows and pleases the eye
Evgeniya Pugachyova (Borzunova) In my greenhouse, too, someone cut the stems of a tomato. I treated with the drug "Decis" poured into the rows under the root. And immediately everything stopped.
Text hiddenExpand Ismakaeva (Voronova) Neli Scour a piece of laundry soap (75%) on a bucket of water, boil, pour under the root and not a single infection will touch the plant. Text hiddenExpand
22 May 12, at 08:30 Elena Igorevna - Ismakaeva (Voronova) Neli I make it easier - I have a washbasin right on the site, just my hands with laundry soap - and then I drain the water under the plant one by one, so I get them all processed about once a week. But I didn’t have time to water them yet, they cut them off that same night, which I planted.
25 May 12, at 11:20 Natalya Evpalova We have a dacha in the Ryazan region. Local old-timers say that there is such a holiday "magpies." (Emphasis on the first syllable) She has a permanent date. It somehow counts.
Garden and vegetable garden: Cucumber seedlings - the secrets of Super Grandma
But the bottom line is that on the day of the week on which it falls, no crops can be planted - birds will peck. This year, Magpies fell on a Thursday. I understand intellectually that this is nonsense, but it is difficult to argue with folk wisdom.
The text is hiddenexpand 22 May 12, at 09:30 Tatiana I have a dacha in the suburbs, 40 km. in the southeast. so we have divorced grape snails that devour the seedlings of zucchini and cucumbers, we have to cover them with five-liter jars with a cut bottom. we turn off the lid, and tie the neck with gauze, otherwise they may crawl. in eating a tomato were not seen.
Text hiddenExpand Valery Podlesny Apparently this is a nibbling shovel - a small caterpillar. Text hiddenExpand Svetlana Bredis For me it was done by black grasshoppers.
They are in the ground, but young beets were eaten in 1 day. I don't know how to deal with them. What gluttons is for sure.
The text is hiddenexpand 24 May 12, at 16:39 Vladimir Gorbov Yes, this is a beetle, as one comment was already written, I don’t know the exact name, when I found it on the Internet, but I don’t remember exactly, we have a lot of them in the gardens, they cut greens, and any, they crap for a couple of months in late spring, early summer, cut the stems Raves, no matter what, drag the ground into the mink and lay their eggs there.
The beetle itself is small, 1.5-2 cm of which half or even more is a head with a large jaw. Here they are most likely to cut seedlings. Text hiddenExpand Elena Igorevna Thank you all and good harvests!
Growing cucumber seedlings - a fast way to harvest
Planting cucumbers
We begin to prepare cucumber seeds for seedlings, which we will plant in an open garden bed in the last days of April or at the very beginning of May. If the seedlings are intended for planting in a greenhouse, we begin the preparation even earlier - at the beginning of April. If you purchased seeds in a store, you can be sure that they are already prepared for planting, treated with various means necessary to obtain a bountiful harvest. We will only have to select the largest and, accordingly, strong germinating seeds.
- To do this, pour a little water into a bowl, preferably slightly salted, and lower the seeds there, moisten them well. The best seeds will sink to the bottom. they are the heaviest. We throw out those that remained afloat. We lay out the seeds suitable for planting on wet gauze and cover it with it on top. We leave them for about a day in a warm place. We are waiting for the emergence of sprouts. The gauze should always be wet, but the seeds should not float, otherwise they will simply rot. Here, the light tips of the sprouts looked out of the seeds, which means they can be planted in the ground.
It must be remembered that cucumbers do not like transplants.. If the roots are damaged at the same time, then the sprout will no longer survive.
Therefore, we prepare separate plastic cups or jars for planting seeds with even, possibly with slightly expanded upwards, walls, so that the grown seedlings can then be easily removed from there along with the ground. It will be necessary to do this in such a way as not to disturb or damage the thin, delicate roots. In these jars, we pour a mixture of fertile soil with the addition of peat, humus, sand, or ready-made soil for seedlings of cucumbers, sold in stores. We start sowing cucumbers like this: in jars we make holes to a depth of 1.5 cm and lower 2-3 seeds with sprouts there.
We bury and water these places a little. After a few days, shoots will appear from the ground, which we do not forget to water regularly. Cucumbers love water, but don't water them too much!
This will lead to a disease such as gray rot, from which the sprouts will die. We water the cucumbers as needed so that the ground around them is sufficiently moist, but not wet. Cucumber seedlings should be well lit during the day and stand in a warm place, because. cucumbers are not only a heat-loving, but also a light-loving plant. After 3-4 weeks, the seedlings will be ready and we will be able to plant them in a permanent place.
How to plant cucumbers to get a big harvest
Preparing a bed "for cucumbers"
A unique method of growing cucumbers
It is, of course, better to prepare a bed for seedlings of cucumbers in the fall. But, if for some reason this was not done, the earth can be dug up, fertilized and loosened immediately before planting. There are several types of beds for cucumbers:
- A simple garden bed. At the site of the future beds, we scatter organic matter: per 1 sq.m. - 1 bucket of manure, humus. We make a bed of any desired length. Then we dig all this to the depth of the spade bayonet. For the next two years, organic fertilizers no longer need to be applied to this place. You can add more minerals, for example, ammonium (15g) and potassium (25g) nitrate, and superphosphate (30g) - per 1 sq.m. Cucumbers are seated in holes or rows. With the first method of planting, we plant seedlings in holes made at a distance of 42-45 cm from one another. You can do it in rows. In this case, we plant the cucumbers from each other 9-10 centimeters, and between the rows we retreat 50-55 cm. Dung bed. This method is more suitable for colder climates or earlier planting of cucumbers in greenhouses. A bed is made in the spring. We dig a trench, calculating its depth in such a way as to put about 35-49 cm of fresh manure on the bottom, and at least 25-31 cm of loose fertile soil on top. Plentifully water the bed with water and plant seedlings (seeds are also possible), approximately 4-5 pieces per square meter. The manure will successfully overheat, releasing a significant amount of heat, and cucumbers will grow well in this warmth - the earth in the garden will not cool down even on cold nights. Compost bed. It is done in the same way as a manure bed, only tops, sawdust, vegetable waste, last year's foliage are taken instead of manure. You can add manure. This bed will be heated less than manure, so it can be used in warmer climates.
Planting seedlings on the main "place of residence"
Growing seedlings of cucumbers
We made a bed. We transplant our seedlings into it. Before taking out the plant, pour the earth in a glass a little so that it does not crumble.
Then carefully remove the seedlings from the cup so as not to break the sprouts and not damage the roots. The plastic cup can be slightly crushed at first so that the earth moves away from the walls. After that, carefully turn the glass on the palm of your hand (the sprouts should fall strictly between the fingers).
The earthen clod with seedlings remaining in the palm of your hand is carefully placed in the prepared pits. These pits should be of such depth that the sprouts of cucumbers rise above the ground only with leaves. Carefully bury them up to this level.
We water a little, plentifully enough, but carefully so that the water does not wash away the ground and does not expose the roots. To obtain a rich harvest of cucumbers, the air temperature should be at least: 24-25 ° C during the day, 16-18 ° C at night.
List of cucumber pests. Methods and methods of pest control of cucumbers
Along with cucumber diseases, the enemies of the cucumber crop are pests.
So we got to the representatives of the animal kingdom, who, because of their love for cucumbers, can also greatly reduce your crop. And it's not just mice.
Before moving on to this topic, it should be noted that along with widespread pests that are found “from Moscow to the very outskirts” where cucumber is grown, there are also local “sinisters” that are characteristic of a particular area. In addition, open ground is threatened by enemies who do not like (or cannot) climb into greenhouses, and vice versa. Polyphagous pests are especially dangerous - they don’t care what they eat (taste preferences cover a large list of garden crops, including weeds), so if you managed to protect some beds from them, they will “win back” on others.
Slugs
This pest needs no further introduction. Although "slugs, or slugs" is the common name for a number of representatives of the class of gastropods, a type of mollusk. Yes, and other representatives of this class - snails, traveling everywhere with their "houses" - are unlikely to cause affection among amateur gardeners. These slow and, at first glance, absolutely defenseless creatures under the cover of night can leave you without a crop or with such fruits that you can’t get anywhere except in a landfill. Moreover, a very small number of "enemies" is quite enough. At night or on a cloudy day, crawling along the stems, they gnaw through young juicy leaves (this is especially damaging to young seedlings), and when the sun appears, they hide under lumps of earth, weed leaves, any objects where it is dark and damp, and wait for the next night. After them, a silvery slimy trace remains on the leaves, which also does not contribute to the normal development of the plant.
For the winter, slugs lay eggs in the soil, from which young individuals are obtained in the spring, starting to spoil seedlings and other plants literally in 2-3 months.
The best way to deal with slugs is mechanically - collect everyone you find. You can, for example, walk at night with a flashlight. But to make this task a little easier for yourself, it’s better to use a trick - create temporary shelters for slugs yourself to escape the daytime sun. These can be pieces of roofing felt, slate, etc., laid out in the boundaries. Or specially placed small containers with water, where slugs could climb in, but not get out. Some gardeners suggest using beer instead of water. The method is indeed more efficient. But in order for the slugs to hide in “hospitably” prepared shelters, you need to keep the site clean, that is, there should be no weeds, debris, foreign objects that create a dark and damp space. It will also help to create barriers on the approaches to the garden (dry clean sand, eggshells). Cleanliness and order should also be in winter - remove all plant debris, old covering material and other debris. It is better to dig up the soil in winter, so you will spoil the “wintering” of many pests, and not just slugs, by raising them closer to the surface and frost.
In serious cases, you will have to resort to chemical protection - there are various pesticides (more precisely, molluscicides), for example, the safest is the Groza granular preparation, in blue granules, in addition to the active substance (metaldehyde), which has an osmotic effect (increases mucus secretion, due to what causes dehydration of the body and the death of the mollusk), there are substances that attract slugs, and substances that repel birds. On other types of living organisms, such as earthworms, insects, birds, mammals, the drug does not work. The substance is scattered both on the surface of the beds and in the aisles (15-30 g per 1 sq. M.). The period of active action is 2 weeks. And do not forget to remove the dead "enemies" ...
Gall nematodes
This disaster, like most others, is better to prevent in a timely manner than to deal with it.
In terms of prevention, you should crop rotation. You can improve the soil by planting garlic, or cruciferous representatives, for example, cabbage - the nematode does not eat them (but weeds must be weeded out in a timely manner in order to completely leave the pest without food). Plentiful watering of the soil with boiling water helps, followed by covering the spilled area with a film for 2-3 hours. In greenhouses, it is recommended to periodically replace the top layer of the earth with a new one or freeze it in winter. Be sure to process garden tools - wash thoroughly, use disinfectant solutions (2% formalin).
You can use biological products, for example, "Fitoverm", which is a product of the vital activity of some beneficial soil microorganisms. It is effective in the fight against many diseases and pests, but is not toxic, does not accumulate in the soil. Vegetables can be eaten after 2 days. As part of the fight against nematodes, soil cultivation should be carried out 1-3 days before planting seedlings.
wireworms
One of the polyphagous pests, preferring potatoes and carrots. But if on these beds you intensively fight with him, then he will not refuse cucumber roots either. The worm-like pest is actually a two-year-old larva of the click beetle. Developing in the soil and distinguished by an enviable appetite, it strongly eats any roots, destroys swollen seeds, gnaws passages in root crops and tubers, which causes their decay.
Fighting this pest is difficult, but necessary. And it is better to use environmentally friendly methods, that is, taking into account the weaknesses of the “enemy”. So, for example, taking into account that females lay eggs from late May to early July (depending on weather conditions) in the top layer of soil under various lumps, heaps of garbage or plant debris, you can deprive her of this opportunity - loosen the beds and remove the garbage . Larvae and beetles overwinter in the soil - dig deeper in the fall so that the pests freeze in the winter. You can also repeat the digging in the spring. And do not neglect the selection of the larvae that come across manually. It is difficult to crush them - they are very hard, it is much easier to break them, and do not be afraid - they do not know how to regenerate like worms, so you will not get two pests instead of one. The wireworm prefers acidic soils - add ash, chalk, eggshells, anything that raises the pH level, that is, it alkalizes. High levels of nitrogen are toxic to this pest - apply nitrogen fertilizers, or better improve the soil with legumes. It is good to sow legumes as a cordon from turfed areas - the wireworm prefers to winter in the turf. It kills the wireworm and a strong solution of potassium permanganate (the holes are shed a day before planting the seedlings). You can also use such a trick (in small areas): halves of potato tubers are buried in the ground (to a depth of 15-20 cm), cut down, with a stick stuck in. After 2-3 days, the baits are removed, the larvae are destroyed. Half a potato can be buried again, just make a new cut.
Medvedki
These rather large and, at first glance, clumsy insects can cause serious damage to the crop. They pose a particular threat to greenhouse plants. Medvedka loves well-manured, moist, generously humus-rich soil and warmth - these are the conditions we usually create in greenhouses. Her diet consists mainly of root crops, earthworms and other insects, but in the process of her movements underground (just at the level of development of the root system of most garden crops), she does not stand on ceremony - she gnaws all the roots that come across on the way. The scope of destruction directly depends on the number of "diggers".
In the fight against Medvedka, it is also better to use mechanical methods, trying to avoid chemistry. The main goal is to discourage reproduction and reduce the number of adults. Deep digging of the soil in autumn and early spring, loosening approximately to a depth of 15-20 cm during the summer (where it does not damage the roots) leads to the destruction of passages, nests, egg clutches.
Some gardeners recommend pouring a little vegetable oil and 2-3 liters of water into the passages, you can use soapy water - these solutions kill the bear. You can use traps - dig into the ground small plastic containers with water, filled to 2/3 (upper edge flush with the ground).
Medvedki react to cow dung “like flies to honey”, so if you find their moves on the site, do not fertilize with this organic fertilizer (they will also run away from neighbors), use better diluted bird droppings - on the contrary, it scares away the bear.
Medvedki really do not like marigolds (tagetes), as well as some other pests.
Of the chemicals, you can use "Phenaksin" or "Thunder", but it is better to do this only in extreme cases and strictly following the instructions for use, since the drugs are toxic. Poisoned bears must be collected and buried so that the birds do not suffer.
But if you suffer a catastrophic defeat in this fight, do not despair. As you know, every medal has two sides.
❧ Dried bears are used in some folk remedies. And if they liked your summer cottage so much, try organizing a “bear farm”, in any case, there is a steady demand for dried bears.
These were all underground pests. But even from the air, cucumbers are threatened with no less misfortunes. Most often, these are sucking arthropods - ticks, whiteflies, aphids, thrips. Fixing on various parts of plants (leaves, shoots, less often flowers), they begin to suck out juices. Basically, they absorb protein substances, and carbohydrates are excreted in the form of sweet excretions (sticky droplets on leaves, surrounding objects). Soot fungi reproduce perfectly on these secretions, causing even more damage to the plant. Insects are especially dangerous in greenhouses, since their natural enemies are not there.
Greenhouse (greenhouse) whitefly
Small (about 1 mm) light yellow insects with white wings and grayish legs. Greenhouse crops are predominantly affected, since, being natives of the tropics, they develop better in warmth and humidity. Easily carried by air currents. The insect is polyphagous, in addition to cucumbers and tomatoes, it can eat a huge number of species, including such weeds as thistle, dandelion, woodlice, which save it from hunger in the fall. The females lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves. The larvae that emerged from the eggs are completely microscopic (0.3 mm), having stuck to the leaf, they become like light green flat scales and begin to feed. On one plant, there are usually pests in different stages of development, which complicates the fight against them. In addition, the greenhouse whitefly is a carrier of many viruses, in particular the causative agent of cucumber mosaic, which further worsens the situation of unfortunate cucumbers.
In terms of combating this pest, it is of great importance to counteract the entry of whiteflies into greenhouses (hanging windows and doors with gauze), timely destruction of weeds. Glue traps will help - small pieces of plywood are painted yellow and smeared with something sticky, such as castor oil. Captured pests are periodically removed, and the traps are lubricated again.
A bush of tobacco will distract the whitefly onto itself, and it can already be treated with some kind of chemical preparation, for example, actellik.
Spider mites
The most dangerous is the common spider mite, which multiplies en masse in dry and hot weather. It settles mainly on the lower surface of the leaves, entangling everything with a thin cobweb. It feeds on cell sap. The leaves gradually become marble in color, then turn brown and dry. To prevent the reproduction of ticks, it is necessary to maintain high air humidity, regularly spray plants, especially in dry weather, and destroy weeds in a timely manner. In serious cases, you can use drugs such as Fitoverm or Actellik.
Aphid
Cucumbers can be threatened by several types of aphids, most commonly melon and large potato aphids. Not only do these insects reproduce very quickly and, accordingly, feed en masse at the expense of the plant, they also carry a huge amount of phytopathogenic viruses. These pests are located not only on young leaves, but also on old ones, and even on flowers. They very intensively secrete sticky excrement (pad), contributing to the development of soot fungi. (Aphids attack cucumbers only from weeds, so it is very important to prevent their growth in greenhouses. In order not to resort to chemicals, you can use solutions such as garlic infusion (200 g of crushed cloves are infused in 1 liter of water for 7 days in a dark place, then filtered and diluted with water - 25 ml of infusion per 1 liter of water) or a solution of ash with soap (1 glass of ash and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap per 10 liters of water, leave for a day, filter and spray).
In nature, the ladybug is the natural enemy of aphids, however, as they say, rely on it, but don’t make a mistake yourself!
thrips
Another very small sucking insect. Adults reach a maximum size of 2 mm (in some species). The color is usually monophonic, light yellow, yellow-brown or black. Thrips are quite widespread, but due to their small size they do not attract attention. But the traces of their vital activity are very noticeable - silvery strokes appear on the leaves (due to air getting into the tissues), areas of discoloration, necrosis, deformation, sticky traces. As a result of damage to the ovaries, crooked fruits are formed. Like other insect pests, thrips are carriers of many viruses.
Thrips are more difficult to control than other pests. On one plant there are insects in different stages of development. For their earliest detection, you can hang sticky traps, but blue ones are better than yellow ones. Weeds should also be controlled.
For spraying, you can try an infusion of garlic. But, most likely, you will have to use chemical insecticides, for example, actara (4 g of the drug per 5 liters of water).
cucumber mosquito
This is a small (3-5 mm) inconspicuous insect of a grayish color, hardly visible against the background of the soil. Females lay their eggs in the soil near the plants so that the hatched larvae (translucent, 5 mm long, with a black head) can easily reach the roots or stem - their food. Weakened plants are more severely affected.
It is very important to prevent the appearance of these pests. To do this, it is necessary to remove plant residues in a timely manner, loosen and dig up the soil, disinfect the manured soil and use only mature compost.
A few days before planting cucumbers, you can treat the soil with Actellik (1-2 liters per 10 sq. M).
❧ It is necessary in every possible way to promote the full growth and development of cucumbers (timely water, feed, observe the temperature regime) - strong and healthy plants are affected much less frequently.
rodents
Behind all this frightening variety of pests, the mouse was almost lost, which was the only one that the cucumber from the cartoon was afraid of. Well, of course, not only mice (field and brownies) harm cucumber plantings, but also some other mouse-like rodents: common voles, gray rats.
Against these pests, of course, is the cleanliness of the site. A variety of garbage and waste is both bait for rodents and shelter. The smell of peppermint repels them. You can catch rodents with traps and mousetraps, using bread and pieces of lard (for mice) or meat (for rats) as bait. But no one has invented a better tool than an ordinary cat. However, keep in mind that not every domestic predator will hunt rodents. And do not forget to take the "faithful guard" to a warm city apartment at the end of the summer season.
