You can use baking soda to get rid of rust on plants. How to treat rust on the leaves of indoor plants. Rusty leaves on an apple tree - what to do? Methods of treatment and prevention

Plant rust is a harmful common disease of many plants, caused by rust fungi and characterized by the formation of pustules of various shapes and sizes on the affected organs, from which, when cracked, a “rusty” powder consisting of fungal spores spills out.

Rust- a disease caused by rust fungi, for example, genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

It is expressed in the appearance of orange-brown tubercles on the upper surface of the leaf, and oval or round pustules are visible on the reverse side of the leaf. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Signs

Symptoms of the lesion are convex concentric spots or stripes, usually rusty-brown in color, on the underside of leaves, and less often on the petioles and stems of plants. They are projected onto the upper side of the leaf as light yellow spots. Later, velvety sporulation pads of the fungus form on the underside of the leaves. Rust disease causes increased transpiration of plants (i.e. evaporation of moisture), and with severe damage - drying and falling of leaves.

The pathogens are carried by wind or insects. The disease occurs locally.

Varieties

Cereals, industrial crops, ornamental plants, forest trees and shrubs, and wild grasses are affected. Pathogens of plant rust develop on the above-ground parts of plants, feed only on the contents of living cells, and spread by spores.

In sick plants, metabolism and water balance are disrupted, photosynthesis energy decreases, and growth decreases. Plant rust impairs the quality of fruits and seeds and the baking properties of wheat and rye.

The most harmful rust: linear grass (pathogen Puccinia graminis), brown wheat (P. triticina, intermediate plants - cornflower and bream), brown rye (P. dispersa, intermediate plants - crooked flower and ruddy), yellow grass (P. striiformis), dwarf barley ( P. hordei, intermediate plant - poultry grass), crown oats (P. coronifera, intermediate plant - buckthorn), corn (P. sorghi, intermediate plant - sorrel), sunflower (P. helianthi), flax (Melampsora liniusitatissimi), sugar beet (Uromyces Betae), raspberries (Phragmidium rubi), pears, apple trees (Gymnosporangium sabinae pathogen, intermediate plant - ordinary northern juniper), gorgeous or columnous gooseberries and currants (causative agents, respectively, PucCinia Ribesi Caricis, Cr. onatrium ribicola, intermediate plants - sedges, Siberian cedar pine or Weymouth pine). Significant harm can be caused to tree species by blister rust of pine (seryanka), larch needles and birch leaves (Melampsoridium betulae), spruce needles (Chrysomyxa ledi or abietis), pine needles (pathogens are species of fungi of the genus Coleosporium).

Control measures

• Destruction of intermediate rust hosts, spatial isolation of crops or plantings from them.
• Deep plowing of the ground to destroy wintering uredo- and telythospores.
• Increasing the resistance of plants by carrying out agrotechnical measures (sowing dates, increased doses of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, etc.).
• Cleaning, sorting and dressing of seeds with fungicides (rust of sunflower, flax, sugar beet).
• Spraying with fungicides immediately after the leaves bloom, repeated twice after 15 days (rust of gooseberries and currants, apple trees, pears, pine needles, spruce); zoning of varieties resistant to rust types.
• Removing affected leaves and branches. Apply spraying with preparations: “topaz”, “vectra”, “strobe”, Bordeaux mixture, cuproxate. The treatment is repeated 2-3 times every 10 days.

Rust is the most common, terrible and difficult to cure fungal disease for plants, the treatment of which must be carried out at the first sign, especially in a small area. Due to the fact that indoor plants are in a confined space, that is, indoors, the disease multiplies very quickly.

Plant rust is easily identified. The disease on indoor flowers is diagnosed by the presence of pustules (pads). They come in various shapes and sizes. A characteristic feature of rust is the method of spore reproduction. Namely: fungal spores, in the form of yellow pollen, form in the pads on the leaves until a certain moment, then they burst and spread throughout the plant, also falling on nearby flowers.

Experts have noted that the peak of “infection” of indoor plants with rust occurs in the winter.. The main reasons for the activity of the disease are a decrease in “immunity” (lack of sun), the maximum likelihood of contact with intermediate hosts.

Coniferous trees are often a temporary refuge for rust fungal spores, the needles of which easily fall off and can come into contact with house flowers at any time. For example, during movement and installation of needles. Often, inexperienced housewives use conifer needles as fertilizer for home flowers. If the pustules were on the needles, then the flower will inevitably be infected, regardless of the time of year.

How dangerous is the disease?

Yellow pollen, that is, a fungal spore (of the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia), causes the death of the leaves of indoor plants, and in particularly “neglected” cases, other parts. With a lack of sunlight, heat and fresh air, the plant’s “immunity” and ability to survive in the winter may decrease.

Indoor plants with “rust” on the leaves are diagnosed with impaired metabolism, the process of photosynthesis, and moisture absorption. In such plants there is a sharp decrease in the formation of shoots or the absence of them at all. If the disease on the leaves is not treated, it will quickly spread to all organs and the indoor flower will die.

How to diagnose rust?

It is quite easy to determine that rust has “settled” on the leaves. The first and most basic sign that the disease manifests is a red, oval-shaped pad. After several days, the number of pustules increases sharply, filling all the free space on the leaves.

In order for the fight against rust to begin in a timely manner, you need to know the possible locations of the pustules:

• leaf;
• stem;
• box with seeds;
• calyx of inflorescence.

Red spots and stripes are most often attached to the underside of leaf blades; much less often they can be identified on the stem and petiole. If the disease appears on the upper side of the leaf, the pustule may have a light yellow color.

The superficial location of the fungus provokes excessive evaporation of moisture, premature drying and death of the leaf.

Methods to combat plant rust

Treatment for rust should begin as early as possible. At different stages of disease development, methods against rust differ. If you start fighting the disease right away, it will be enough to cut off the infected leaves and destroy them.

At later stages, when the pustules have had time to multiply, experts recommend using special anti-rust preparations to combat living fungal spores in all infected areas of the plant.

It is important to know! Treatment of indoor plants is carried out only with special protective gloves that prevent the penetration of the drug onto the skin.

The most effective drugs in the fight against the disease:

• 1% Bordeaux mixture (a mixture of copper sulfate and lime powder).
• Topaz.
• Abiga Peak.
• Baktofit.
• Fitosporin-S.

It should be noted that a one-time treatment of the plant may not be enough to completely cure the disease. Young (resistant) pustules with spores are able to survive after treatment. Therefore, experts recommend re-processing the plant after 7-14 days.

Also, do not forget that you can completely get rid of the disease only if the cause and method of infection are identified in a timely manner. Experts say that most often indoor plants get rust from coniferous trees. It is not for nothing that most disease epidemics began after the New Year holidays.

Most conifers are intermediate hosts. They are resistant to the disease, since the affected needles on coniferous trees fall off and do not require special spore control.

Subtleties of spraying infected plants

• When fighting fungal spores, experts do not recommend additionally irrigating the plant, since the effectiveness of treatment decreases, and water contributes to a greater spread of the disease.
• To prevent the chemical solution from getting on neighboring “healthy” plants, spraying should be carried out in an isolated space. Upon successful completion of each spraying, you need to rinse all components with water to prevent the chemical from getting on people or animals.
• Store chemicals only in a cool, dark place out of reach of children.

For “safe” spraying you need to use:

1. Rubber gloves protect the skin of the hands from the penetration of chemical elements.
2. A mask to protect the face and respiratory tract from vapor penetration.
3. Sprayer. Used for quick and safe flower pollination.
4. Chemical.

The beginning of the process is based on diluting the “healing” powder with water in the proportions indicated on the package. Next, you need to carefully pour the resulting liquid into the sprayer tank and connect the system.

Place the “sick” plant in an open area (without drafts), spray it from all sides (upper and lower parts of the leaves, trunk, cuttings, inflorescences).

How to properly organize prevention

An effective means of combating rust is the organization of periodic prevention of the disease. To reduce the risk of contracting the disease, you should:

• Strictly follow the recommended calendar for introducing nitrogen fertilizer into the root and foliage systems.
• Plant plants in a timely manner.
• Water indoor plants on a schedule.
• Eliminate plant residues from flowerpots.
• Minimize contact between house plants and coniferous trees.

By using special anti-rust preparations in a timely manner, you can save more than one indoor flower, but also protect your “green corner” from total destruction.

Rust is a disease in which living plant tissues, mainly leaves, are affected by fungi of the Heterobasidiomycetes subclass. Rustworms do not feed on dead organic matter, so after sucking the juices from one plant, they move on to the next. Often, rust is first detected on the leaves of crops; if appropriate measures are not taken in time, this disease can destroy the entire plant.

This fungus is so tenacious that it does not die when carried by air or insects over long distances.

The number of spores ripening at the same time reaches several tens of billions. For these reasons, the area covered by rust fungi is expanding at an incredible rate, and outbreaks of the disease are breaking out in the most unexpected places.

Appearance of the affected plant

A wide variety of plants can be affected by rust, from wild plants to agricultural crops, for example:

• cereals,
• industrial crops,
• ornamental plants,
• forest tree and shrub species,
• meadow and field grasses.

A characteristic sign of the disease is clusters of orange or brown spores on the underside of the leaf and yellow oval or round spots on the top. Soon the spots turn into stripes, the leaves turn yellow, then brown or black, dry out and fall off. This happens due to metabolic and water balance disorders, and a decrease in the energy of photosynthetic processes.

If you find various orange-yellow pustules on the leaves, know that after a while they will crack and spores will spill out of them, which are popularly called rusty powder.

So, in advanced cases, the leaves and other parts of the plant (shoots, buds and flowers) infected with rust die. Accordingly, winter hardiness and yield, the quality of fruits, berries or vegetables are significantly reduced. All grain crops affected by rust lose the baking properties of the grain.

Reasons for appearance

Rust disease is dangerous because it can spread through water, wind, and seeds. Having landed on a plant, the fungus destroys it from the inside. Taking away nutrients, it literally makes breathing of stems and leaves impossible.

Flowers at increased risk of rust infection include peonies and lupins, roses and phlox, irises and lilies of the valley, and plants.

The development of the disease is facilitated by the following factors:

• prolonged cool weather accompanied by rain or abundant watering;
• thickened plantings (this interferes with the timely drying and ventilation of plants);
• application of excess amounts of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Types of disease

Let's look at the manifestation of rust disease using the example of some garden flowers.

• Irises. Their leaves are severely affected by rust, caused by Puccinia iridis. A huge number of brown bubbles cover the surface. The leaves quickly turn yellow and dry out. By autumn, black stripes form on the dead parts, indicating that the fungus has gone into hibernation and not disappeared.

• Clove plants. At the beginning of summer, leaves and stems infected with the pathogen Uromyces caryophyllus become covered with brown pustules. After they have matured and burst, the plant is depressed and the leaves dry out. In autumn, the bubbles take on a dark brown tint - this is a sign that the mushroom has fallen asleep.
• Bulbous plants. Leaves infected with the rust pathogen Uromyces scillarum initially show small, colorless areas that turn yellow over time. Then brownish spores appear on the leaves and even on the scales. The fate of the leaves is the same as that of irises. However, the plant itself slows down in growth and stops blooming luxuriantly.
• Compositae. The spores of this fungus, Coleosporium solidaginis, are located on the lower surface of the leaves. The affected parts soon die. In autumn, the harmful fungus overwinters in flat orange pustules.

• Lilies of the valley. Yellow round or oblong spots appear on the leaves of this flower infected with the Puccinia fungus. On the reverse side, under these spots, whitish pustules of a cylindrical shape and with inwardly curved edges develop over time.
• Cruciferous. All above-ground parts of plants of this family are damaged by white rust, its causative agent is the fungus Albugo candidae. A large number of white spores swell and bend the pads, causing the leaves to curl and die.

Fighting methods

Rust on the leaves of garden flowers (roses, hollyhocks, hydrangeas, lilies, lilies of the valley, irises, hyacinths, tulips, carnations, asters, chrysanthemums, gillyflower, gladioli, peonies) is a contagious disease that can and should be combated. There are many folk and chemical ways to destroy rust fungus.

Basic description of the disease Black spot is caused by the fungus Marssonina rosae, which, when it gets on plants…

Folk remedies

• 1 tablespoon of soda, 1 teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent, 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil, 1 aspirin tablet, 4.5 liters of water. Mix all components and spray the plants once every 10 days.

Soda
Liquid dish soap

Vegetable oil
Aspirin

• Pour fresh manure (1/3 of a bucket) with water and leave for three days, stirring it from time to time. Filter using a strong cloth, then dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10. Spray plants only in the evening to prevent sunburn on the leaves. For a new treatment, it is necessary to prepare a fresh infusion.

Chemicals (fungicides)

In the fight against rust, 1- and 2% solutions of multifunctional contact and contact-local sulfur- and copper-containing preparations are most successfully used, including:

• Flint Star;
• "Colloidal sulfur" (cumulus);
• "Bordeaux mixture";
• "Oxychom";
• "Falcon";
• "Coronet";
• "Copper oxychloride."

In rainy weather, during treatment with chemicals, you need to add so-called green soap or adhesive to the prepared solution. Its function is to fix the fungicide on the surface of the leaves.

The fight against powdery mildew (ashtray), a widespread and dangerous disease for many plants, must...

Prevention

The following preventive measures are the best way to combat leaf rust.

• When watering, make sure that water does not get on the leaves.
• As soon as you find infected areas on the plant: leaves or branches, destroy them immediately or bury them deeper into the soil.

• Get rid of intermediate rust hosts, isolate crops or plantings from diseased plants.
• In autumn, it is imperative to remove fallen leaves and fruits, and broken shoots.
• Before starting sowing, deeply plow the soil to destroy harmful spores overwintering in it.
• Clean, sort, treat seeds with fungicides (this is especially useful for preventing rust on sunflower, flax and sugar beets).


• Once the leaves have blossomed, repeat spraying with special chemicals twice at an interval of two weeks. This way you can prevent rust of fruit bushes (gooseberries and currants) and trees (apple and pear), as well as conifers: pine and spruce.
• Separate varieties that are resistant to different types of rust fungi.
• Plant bushes with a dense crown along the perimeter of the site to eliminate the possibility of spreading infected spores from a neighboring site or from a nearby forest.
• You should not purchase land near pine forests.
• Weed regularly, as they can carry rust.

Rust is a very serious disease. In order not to start it, inspect the plants more often, because a disease detected at an early stage is much easier to cure. Under no circumstances hesitate to take countermeasures – “later” it may be too late. And most importantly, remember about preventive procedures to protect your garden from harmful microorganisms and not use chemicals.

Diseases occur not only in indoor and garden plants; fruit trees are also susceptible to various infections. One common disease is leaf rust. Even an adult strong tree cannot resist it, and even less so a young seedling with a weak root system.

How does leaf rust appear?

In the initial stages of this plant disease, the leaf plate becomes covered with small orange spots. Over time, they grow to 1 cm or more. In this case, a dense growth forms on the back side of the sheet (just under the stain). As the affected area increases, the leaves begin to curl and completely fall off.

Sick trees have a weakened immune system, as a result of which they do not survive the winter well: mature plantings partially freeze, and seedlings planted this season may freeze completely. In addition, productivity decreases from year to year.

Causes of rusty plant disease

In most cases, plants growing in the neighborhood become carriers of rust spores. Experienced gardeners have long noticed that pears and plums are the most susceptible to the disease. Among the shrubs, raspberries, gooseberries and currants are often affected.

The rust fungus (the causative agent of the disease) is carried by gusts of wind, affecting all the plants it touches.

Leaf rust treatment

Affected trees must be sprayed several times:

• in early spring, before the buds open, use a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 300 g per bucket of water;
• during flowering - with Horus;
• after the end of flowering - Skor, Raek or Fitalavin.

Fallen leaves should be collected and burned.

Disease prevention

In order to protect your garden from insidious plants and other plants, you need to inspect the plantings more often. The area should be kept clean, removing fallen leaves and weeds in a timely manner. Water should not be allowed to stagnate in the tree trunk after heavy watering, as this is an ideal environment for the development of fungal infections.

The best prevention of rust is to use for growing only zoned varieties of fruit trees that are immune to rust.

It is necessary to regularly carry out sanitary pruning, as well as bleach the trunks with a mixture of lime (slaked) and preparations containing copper. In addition, it is necessary to dig up the tree trunk circle annually, after which the soil is treated alternately with urea and copper sulfate.

Methods for combating leaf rust in fruit trees - video

Rust- a product of the interaction of the external oxidizing atmosphere with iron. The process of its formation is called rusting (). The term “rust” is inherent only to corrosion products of iron and its alloys. Any other metals can corrode, but do not rust!

Rust is hydrated iron oxide (iron hydroxide). Chemical formula of rust- Fe 2 O 3 H 2 O (sometimes they simply write Fe 2 O 3). It forms on the surface in the form of a rough coating, which has a loose structure. Rust color- from orange to red-brown.

Iron at a pH > 5.5 forms a sparingly soluble ferric oxide hydrate, which is white in color:

Fe 2+ mH 2 O + 2OH - = mH 2 O + Fe(OH) 2 ↓

When ferrous oxide hydrate interacts with dissolved oxygen in water, an even more sparingly soluble compound is formed - ferric oxide hydrate (brown color):

2Fe(OH) 2 + 1/2 O 2 + H 2 O = 2Fe(OH) 3 ↓

Secondary corrosion products (Fe(OH) 2 and Fe(OH) 3) can continue to transform, with the formation of hydrated oxides FeO Fe 2 O 3 nH 2 O - rust. FeO is an unstable compound, so it is often simply not written down in the rust formula.

Rust formation reactions:

2e + 2H + - H 2 ;

4e +O 2 + 4H + - 2H 2 O;

2e + Fe(OH) 2 + 2H + - Fe + 2H 2 O;

2e + Fe 2+ - Fe;

2e + Fe(OH) 3 - + 3H + - Fe + 3H 2 O;

e + Fe(OH) 3 + H + - Fe(OH) 2 + H2O;

e + Fe(OH) 3 + 3H + - Fe 2+ + 3H 2 O;

Fe(OH) 3- + H + - Fe(OH) 2 + H 2 O;

e + Fe(OH) 3 - Fe(OH) 3- ;

Fe 3+ + 3H 2 O - Fe(OH) 3 + 3H + ;

Fe 2+ + 2H 2 O - Fe(OH) 2 + 2H + ;

e + Fe 3+ - Fe 2+ ;

Fe 2+ + H 2 O - FeOH + H + ;

FeOH + + H 2 O > Fe(OH) 2 + H + ;

Fe(OH) 2 + H 2 O - Fe(OH) 3- + H + ;

Fe 3+ + H 2 O - FeOH 2+ + H + ;

FeOH 2+ + H 2 O - Fe(OH) 3 + H + ;

FeOH 2+ + H + - Fe 2+ + H 2 O;

e + FeOH 2+ + 2H + - Fe 2+ +2H 2 O;

e + Fe(OH) 3 + H + - Fe(OH) 2 + H 2 O;

e + Fe(OH) 3 + 2H + - FeOH + + 2H 2 O;

e + Fe(OH) 3 + 3H + - Fe 2+ + 3H 2 O.

Rust can exist in two forms: magnetic (γ-Fe 2 O 3) and non-magnetic (α-Fe 2 O 3). Hydrated iron oxide in α form (hematite) is a more stable compound. A solution saturated with rust is almost neutral. γ-Fe 2 O 3 usually forms a black intermediate layer between the hydrated oxides of Fe 2 O 3 and FeO. Therefore, we can say that rust consists of three layers of iron oxides of varying degrees of oxidation.

The rusting process of metal begins only when there is moisture in the air. When a drop of water hits the surface of an iron product, after some time you may notice a change in its color. The drop becomes cloudy and gradually turns brown. This indicates the appearance of iron corrosion products at the point of contact of water with the surface.

If rust has already formed, it is extremely difficult to stop the corrosion process and is not always possible. It’s better to prevent it and protect the metal in advance!